Namibië: een aangename verrassing!

Om te beginnen: sorry als de blogs te lang zijn, maar er is gewoon zo veel te vertellen! 🙂

Na het prachtige Zambia zijn we doorgetrokken naar Namibië. Initieel hadden we dit land niet op ons programma staan, maar door de vele aanbevelingen (zowel in Nederland nog als van medereizigers) zijn we toch maar naar het grote Namibië gegaan. Namibië is bijna 20 keer zo groot als Nederland maar er wonen slechts 2,2 miljoen mensen. Het is dus uitgestrekt, één en al woestijn (zowel rotsachtig als zand) en voelt verlaten. Het regent héél weinig: 50mm per jaar ìn het zuiden (het noorden krijgt zo’n 120mm) dus alles is gort en gort droog.

Vanuit Zambia nemen we een bus naar Windhoek. Het is een traject van 1.500km en we doen er zo’n 22 uur over (22 uur!!). Vooral het stuk in Zambia is beroerd: door het slechte wegdek rijden we meer náást de weg dan erop. Zodra we aankomen bij de grensovergang met Namibië begint het feest. Zambia uit gaat snel en soepel, maar Namibië in vergt wat geduld. Eerst moet je langs een tent om je temperatuur te laten checken: een soort lasergun wordt op je gericht en ze meten je temperatuur. Op basis hiervan wordt vastgesteld of je cholera hebt of niet. Je krijgt een vodje waarop staat dat je gezond bent en je mag door naar de douane. Dit is niet echt aangegeven dus wij stonden al in de rij voor onze stempel en worden terugverwezen naar de choleratent. Eenmaal terug in de rij van zo’n 50 mensen begint het wachten. Er is één douané die zowel inkomend als uitgaand moet behandelen. We staan zo’n twee uur in de rij, er lijkt geen eind aan te komen. Zodra alle paspoorten gestempeld zijn denken we door te kunnen. Maar met het stempeltje alleen is het nog niet voldoende, alle bagage blijkt namelijk naast de bus te liggen. Stuk voor stuk moeten alle tassen open en kleren eruit gehaald worden. Mannen bij de mannelijke beambte, vrouwen bij de vrouwelijke. De douanebeambten zitten er echter behoorlijk ongeïnteresseerd bij, maar we worden goedgekeurd.

De volgende dag in Windhoek hebben we een druk programma (onze standaard van ‘druk’ is inmiddels wat aangepast): we moeten onze Volkswagen Polo ophalen bij het verhuurbedrijf op het vliegveld, de campingspullen ophalen bij het verhuurbedrijf (geniaal dat dat dus kan), slaapzakken kopen en proviand inslaan voor de komende weken. We slapen in onze tent om alle spullen uit te testen en rijden de volgende ochtend vroeg weg: op naar het zuiden!

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We hebben redelijk geslapen, maar niet fantastisch. Dat komt met name door het dunne matje waar we op liggen waardoor je als je op je zij ligt gewoon met je botten op de grond ligt. En dan de slaapzakken die we gister hebben gekocht: ze zouden tot -7 graden moeten kunnen zonder dat we het koud krijgen (dus willen we ze ook naar Nepal meenemen). Maar nee hoor, het is hier ’s nachts denk ik +7 graden en we hebben het best wel een beetje koud gehad. Dat wordt dus nog wat!

Zodra we alles hebben ingepakt springen we in de auto en zetten koers naar Fish River Canyon. Onze Offline Maps op de telefoon werkt perfect: je download een kaart van een land en kunt de app vervolgens als navigatie gebruiken. Het is even uitvogelen hoe het werkt (Twan was er na één minuut al klaar mee), maar als je het eenmaal doorhebt werkt het prima. Wat hier meteen opvalt is het verschil tussen Namibië en de overige Afrikaanse landen: het land is pas sinds 1990 onafhankelijk geworden van Zuid-Afrika, een reden waarom veel mensen hier Afrikaans spreken. De mensen zijn schoon en stinken niet. De verhouding blanken – donkere mensen is denk ik 30 – 70% en ze gaan op een normale manier met elkaar om, apartheid valt hier niet op. Het wegennet is beperkt maar de wegen die er zijn, zijn van goede kwaliteit. We kunnen hier gewoon 120 km/h rijden op de asfaltwegen (die ogen als een 80-weg in NL, je rijdt elkaar namelijk tegemoet zonder afscheiding ertussen). Het asfalt is glad en zonder gaten, dus je kunt lekker rijden. De overige wegen zijn allemaal dirt roads: een soort grind / gravel waar je overheen dendert. Op sommige stukken is het goed genoeg om zelfs 120km/h te rijden, maar soms kunnen we niet harder dan 20km/h. En dat met een Polootje, in een land waar het gros toch voor de zekerheid maar een 4×4 huurt! We voelen ons best heldhaftig en hopen maar dat onze auto het houdt!

Je rijdt na 20km van Windhoek de woestijn in, en ook 730km verderop in de Fish River Canyon zit je nog in diezelfde woestijn. Het landschap is enerzijds eentonig in het zuiden, anderzijds super interessant. Na de Grand Canyon in de VS is dit de grootste canyon ter wereld. De canyon beslaat een gebied van 160 bij 27 km en de dramatische kloven gaan tot 550 meter diep. Om de grootheid hiervan echt te ervaren moet je, net als bij de Victoria Falls, onderin de canyon lopen. De canyon zelf is fantastisch, wat een prachtig uitzicht zeg! Je verwacht het niet, maar in deze woestijn komt ‘s werelds grootste differentiatie aan fauna voor. Ik vraag me af waar ik dat precies moet zien, want alles is rotsachtig en droog. Her en der zie je wel wat planten en her en der een boompje, maar het is erg kaal en droog. Ondanks dat mogen we overal een kampvuur maken.

We laten de auto staan bij het uitzichtpunt van de canyon en lopen een stukje verder naar de start van de vijf daagse hikers trail. Wauw dit lijkt ons echt super gaaf om te doen: je wandelt vijf dagen lang door de canyon, van Hobas naar Ai-Ais waar je eindigt bij de hotsprings. We krijgen ineens het geniale idee dat we terug moeten komen naar om deze hike te gaan doen. Misschien wel met Jos en Nadia, die zullen hier ongetwijfeld voor in zijn na hun beklimming van de Anapurna in Nepal. Het zal ongetwijfeld pittig zijn, want je hebt zelfs een doktersverklaring uit Nederland nodig (niet ouder dan 40 dagen) met de verklaring dat je gezond bent. Ook moet je al je eten meesjouwen uiteraard en spullen om te slapen. Het zal ongetwijfeld bijzonder heftig zijn, maar zeker een unieke ervaring.

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De weg van de Fish River Canyon naar Sesriem is geheel offraod en beslaat zo’n 450km. We vertrekken dus maar vroeg en blijken onze tijd nog wel nodig te hebben. We doen er zo’n 7,5 uur over, maar door de prachtige uitzichten verveelt het geen seconde. Zodra we op de camping onze tent staan op te zetten, zien we ineens Juul en Babette langsrijden: we hebben ze in Livingstone (Zambia) ontmoet en zaten in dezelfde bus naar Windhoek (het grappig van Namibië is dat het een gigantisch land is, maar bijna alle toeristen gaan naar dezelfde plekken. Hierdoor zijn we tot drie keer toe een Nederlands gezin tegen gekomen). We lopen naar ze toe en genieten van het prachtige uitzicht. De zonsondergang is fantastisch, de lucht kleurt paars en allerlei andere kleuren. Juul wilde net een vuurtje maken om te barbecueën, dus halen we onze spullen voor het avondeten op en eten we bij hen. Of de spullen, we besluiten om de hele auto maar mee te nemen want we hebben ook een tafel, stoelen en alle potten en pannen nodig. Het is beregezellig en na twee flessen wijn en 1,5L gin-tonic besluiten we maar naar ‘huis’ terug te rijden: we moeten 200m rijden en lachen ons kapot, ondanks dat het nog maar 22.00 uur is.

Je gaat naar Sesriem om de zandwoestijn in te gaan en de Deadvlei te bekijken. Deadvlei is een witte kleivlakte en omgeven door een aantal van de hoogste duinen ter wereld. “This is Big Daddy, the biggest sand dune in the world. It is approximately 360m high. You can climb it if you want.” Wow hij ziet er echt hoog uit, dat zal zweten worden! De bomen die er staan zijn 900 jaar oude accaciabomen en zijn zwartgeblakerd door de zon. Door de droogte verteren ze niet.

We lopen eerst naar de Dead vlei, de Sossusvlei is volgens onze chauffeur niet zo interessant. De eerste meters door het zand voelen zwaar, maar we zullen er later achter komen dat dit nog helemaal niet zo heel mul is. We hebben geluk, want de meeste mensen zijn hier al naartoe gekomen tijdens de zonsopkomst. Ze zijn nu allemaal op hun weg terug naar de auto. We houden er zo van als we niet met 100 man tegelijk eenzelfde foto moeten maken. Aan de achterkant van de vlei zien we Big Daddy. De mensen die hem getrotseerd hebben komen naar beneden gerend. Het ziet er best apart uit dus we worden toch nieuwsgierig. Aan de linkerkant zien we een pad waar anderen ons zijn voorgegaan. Het pad komt uit op de kam van de duin, waar je verder omhoog loopt. Zo lijkt het tenminste. Vol goede moed beginnen we aan de klim, maar mijn hemel wat is het zwaar. De duin gaat behoorlijk stijl omhoog en we lopen echt door mul mul zand: met elke stap die je omhoog zet, zak je bijna weer helemaal terug naar beneden. Vermoedelijk stijgen we zo’n 10-15cm per stap en het is loodzwaar. Over een hoogte van 100m moeten we echt diverse keren stoppen, het zweet loopt me in mijn bilnaad en ik weet nog niet of ik die verrekte Big Daddy überhaupt wel aan kan. “In de films lopen ze ook altijd op de kam van een duin, dus misschien moeten wij dat straks ook doen” zegt Twan enthousiast. En inderdaad, zodra we eenmaal op de kam van de duin zijn, gaat het een stuk beter! Ik krijg weer goede moed en we lopen enthousiast door.  We lopen te zweten en genieten van het uitzicht, dat met elke stap die we zetten mooier wordt. Er volgen nog een paar pittige stukken, maar we zetten door en uiteindelijk bereiken we de top van de duin. Wauw wat is het hier mooi. Je kijkt behoorlijk ver weg. Aan de ene kant zie je met name zandtoppen, de andere kant op de Dead vlei die ineens veel en veel groter blijkt te zijn dan je beneden ervaart als je erin staat, de Sossusvlei met ook nog wat witte vlaktes en nog veel en veel meer zand. Het is prachtig, met name omdat we helemaal alleen boven zitten. We drinken uit onze gigantische vijf liter water jerrycan die we de hele weg hebben meegesleept. Na zo’n tien minuten komen de volgende toeristen en beginnen we aan de afdaling. We gaan rennen, wat een hele aparte gewaarwording is. Twan gaat high-speed (uiteraard) en sjeest naar beneden. Ik heb de rugtas en ben bang voor mijn knieën en enkels dus doe het iets rustiger aan, maar het is super gaaf. De duin heeft een helling van zo’n 40% en je zakt echt 40cm weg in het zand met elke stap die je zet. Er ontstaan kleine zandlawines, het zand zit overal! Lachend, gillend en hijgend zijn we binnen vijf minuten weer beneden. Eerst die schoenen uit, ze lijken namelijk wel drie maten te klein door die kuub zand die inmiddels ook in mijn sokken zit.

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We rijden door naar Naukluft National Park. Theoretisch gezien hebben we maar een kort ritje voor de boeg: iets meer dan 100km. We worden echter geadviseerd om niet de D854 te nemen maar om te rijden via Solitaire, wat ertoe leidt dat we zo’n 200km gaan rijden. Ach, wat maakt het ook uit. In de receptie van de camping schrijven we ons in en spreek ik een Duits stel aan dat eruit ziet alsof ze gewandeld hebben. Ze hebben de Waterkloof niet gelopen, die vonden ze te ver (17km) maar hebben de Olive Trail gedaan (11km). Ze zitten lekker een biertje te drinken en te genieten van de zon. Het is meteen gezellig en we besluiten ook naast hun te gaan staan op de camping. Niet alleen voor de gezelligheid, ook voor het feit dat dit de enige twee plekken zijn waar de hele dag door de zon op schijnt. De andere plekken liggen allemaal in de schaduw. Überhaupt is het wel een ‘natuurlijke’ camping: je moet door een riviertje rijden (en lopen) om bij de overige plekken te komen en bij het toiletgebouw. Dat wordt vannacht dus piesen achter een boompje! We slaan bij de receptie nog wat wijn en bier in want het ziet er naar uit dat dit wel een gezellige avond gaat worden. Andre, de Duitse man, maakt snel een vuurtje als de zon begint onder te gaan. Zodra de zon onder is, blijkt dat de maan zich nog niet laat zien. De sterrenhemel met de Melkweg die tevoorschijn komt is onvoorstelbaar: van links naar rechts over de hele hemelboog kun je hem zien. Ik maak een foto door de camera op de auto te leggen, stel de sluitertijd in om 20 seconden en sta verstelt van het resultaat: je ziet nog veel meer sterren en de Melkweg ziet eruit als in de boekjes. Misschien moet ik de foto wel naar National Geographic sturen! Andre is jaloers, hij krijgt het met zijn dure en professionele camera niet voor elkaar.

In plaats van de Waterkloof gaan we vandaag toch maar de Olive Trail lopen. Het is een route van 11km en begint bij een parkeerplaats zo’n 5km van de camping. We hotseknotsen er weer naartoe over de hobbelweg en parkeren de auto. Er staat één campertje en één Toyota Carolla, dus het lijkt erop dat we niet al te veel mensen tegen gaan komen. De route wordt aangegeven met witte voetstappen, die geschilderd zijn op de rotsen her en der. ‘Ik heb om de een of andere reden dat dit weer een fiasco gaat worden’ zeg ik, als we na de eerste aanwijzing al moeten zoeken voor het volgende voetje. Maar we vinden hem, en de route blijkt behoorlijk goed aangegeven te worden.

De route gaat eerst behoorlijk steil omhoog, dus na een aantal stappen begin ik al te hijgen. Holy Shit, als dit zo door blijft gaan dan gaat dit nog een zware wandeling worden. Maar eens even zien hoe we dit gaan aanpakken. We hebben gelukkig een jerrycan met 4L water bij ons, broodjes, paté en pindakaas. We gaan het dus wel overleven, het is immers maar 11km. Het leuke is van wandelen in Afrika is dat de paden niet zijn beveiligd op naar beneden vallen. Soms loop je echt flink langs een afgrond, het pad bestaat voornamelijk uit grote stenen en rotsen en nadat we het hoogste punt hebben bereikt, 1.900m hoogte, dalen we af en lopen we door de opgedroogde rivierbedding. Het is echt heerlijk om hier te zijn en we hebben het tempo er lekker in. Je hoort werkelijk niets om je heen, helemaal niets. Echt gaaf!

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Het laatste stadje van Namibië staat alweer op het programma: Swakopmund. We rijden weer zo’n 400km en komen uiteindelijk aan op de eerste asfaltweg sinds 1,5 week: wat een genot! Maar voor het zo ver is knalt er echt een enorme steen op de voorruit en laat een gigantische ster achter in de voorruit, zo’n 4cm rond. Net op het moment dat Twan zegt: “Misschien moet je iets meer afstand bewaren wanneer er een tegenligger komt, die kunnen nog wel eens stenen opwerpen.” PATS! AAAAH! Dit gaat ons wel wat geld kosten vrees ik…

In Swakopmund zijn veel thrill activiteiten te doen, dus we gaan maar eens kijken wat er te doen is. Onze receptie organiseert van alles, veel meer dan we hadden verwacht. Toch houden we het bij quadrijden en de skydive. Wat een adrenaline!

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En dan zit het er alweer op helaas. We zouden graag langer blijven in Namibië, want we hebben nog zo veel niet gezien en gedaan. Maar ons ticket naar India hadden we al vanuit Nederland geboekt, dus we trekken verder. Maar voordat we naar India gaan hebben we nog 24 uur in Johannesburg met Ryaadh, een Zuid-Afrikaan die we in Turkije hebben ontmoet. Op het vliegveld in Windhoek leveren we de auto in en gaan door de douane. We zitten net een kwartier als een vrouw naar ons toe komt. “Sorry, I see you are settled, but would you join us so we can buy you a beer?” Ik kijk haar stomverbaasd zo’n vijf seconden aan. ‘Waarom zou ze dat vragen? Is ze te vertrouwen? Waar is onze dagtas met belangrijke spullen?’ En nog meer gedachten schieten door mijn hoofd. Door de vermoedelijke idiote uitdrukking op mijn gezicht zegt ze snel: “Never mind. Maybe it was foolish to ask. But if you change your mind, we are in that café over there.” We kijken elkaar aan en vinden het echt heel vreemd. Maar goed, wat hebben we te verliezen?

Dave en Lu komen uit Dallas, Texas. Ze zijn een maand op vakantie en bezoeken Zuid-Afrika, Namibië, Zambia, Botswana, Malawi en Zimbabwe. Namibië was fantastisch vonden ze: ze zijn namelijk vanuit Windhoek naar de Sossusvlei Lodge gevlogen, zijn daar drie dagen geweest en zitten nu weer op het vliegveld van Windhoek te wachten om naar Johannesburg te vliegen. Oké, deze mensen geven echt ‘heul veul’ geld uit in één maand, dat is wel duidelijk! Na een super leuk gesprek geef ik toe dat ik een beetje overrompeld was door haar vriendelijkheid en spontaniteit. Tegelijkertijd neem ik me voor om hier een voorbeeld aan te nemen: waarom niet?

De volgende dag krijgen we een geniaal idee en bespreken ons businessplan met Ryaadh: Twan en ik kunnen ons verhuren als reisleider aan mensen zoals Dave en Lu. Mensen die bakken met geld uitgeven aan een vakantie, maar vervolgens een land niet écht ervaren: vliegen van hot naar her, alles is vooraf geboekt en enige vorm van spontaniteit is niet meer mogelijk. Dus: betaal ons gewoon 20K voor een periode van een week of zes, koop een backpack en wij nemen je mee op sleeptouw. Écht reizen betekent dat je je zo nu en dan oncomfortabel voelt, verlangt naar een warme douche, doodsbang bent voor de hippo die voor je neus langsloopt als je naar je tent wilt lopen in het donker. Écht reizen betekent over land trekken, gebruik maken van openbaar vervoer, de lokale mensen leren kennen en hun eten leren waarderen. Ryaadh vindt het een goed plan, maar maakt zich wel zorgen: “It is an unwritten law that travellers won’t interfere with toerists. How are you gonna mannage that?” We lachen maar hij heeft 100% gelijk: op vakantie gaan is totáál wat anders dan reizen!

FOTO’S!

1.580 reacties

  1. Leuke update! Hebben jullie over julliezelf al nieuwe dingen geleerd? Volgend verhaal eens een indruk over Twan en Ingeborg, dat lijkt zo verdomd stabiel allemaal 😉 De lezer wil ook wat te smullen hebben.

    Gr en kus,

    Johan

    1. Grappig dat je het zegt, we hebben het er wel een aantal keer over gehad. Ik zal eens kijken hoe sappig we het verhaal kunnen maken 😉

  2. Wat een mooi verhaal, en indrukwekkend wat jullie mee maken.
    Was vanmiddag bij Dorien, en zei allang niets meer gehoord, en zie nu jullie verhaal.
    Super.
    Kijk nu alweer uit na jullie volgende belevenis.

    Groeten Bennie en Pia

  3. Hah, wat cool allemaal weer, herkenbaar ook, behalve cholera test 😉
    Hiken? Avontuur? Ergens zonder bereik, gids, bussen vol Chinesen en vastgesteld plan de rimboe in lopen? Count us in! 🙂

    Succes in India, ook met Twan zijn buik(loop)

  4. Hoi, hoi,

    Wat een prachtige sterrenfoto!! En Namibië is voor ons ook weer een beetje ‘dichterbij’ gekomen door de verhalen. 20x NL en maar 2,2 miljoen mensen! Weten jullie ook hoeveel NL-ers er in Namibië wonen?

    Groetjes en kusjes Dorien en Ton

    1. Nederlanders geen idee, wel veel Duitsers!

  5. En hoe is het afgelopen met die ster in de ruit?

    Gr. Ton En Dorien

    1. Als het goed is moeten we 70-80 euro betalen voor een nieuwe ruit, maar de exacte prijs weten we nog niet 🙂

  6. Super gaaf!! Allemaal heel leuk om te volgen!!!

  7. Prachtig verhaal weer! Toch apart dat je in een land wat niet ingepland was en grotendeels uit woestijn bestaat, zo’n fantastische periode beleeft. Gisteravond was Namibie uitgebreid op TV bij “Floortje aan het eind van de wereld”. Denk mede daardoor wel te begrijpen wat je allemaal bedoelt. En die Big Daddy is wel echt een forse! Vond het duin in ZW-Frankrijk al big maar die dus maar petite begrijp ik nu… Enjoy your stay in India! kusje van pa.

  8. Jasper, Els & Nora zegt: Beantwoorden

    Wow, wat een geweldige verhalen. Dit is wel de ultieme trip! Nora is wel een beetje jaloers… 😉

  9. Wat een geweldige belevenis weer, Ingeborg ik zag wel een beetje angst in je ogen toen je ging skydiven👀.
    Groetjes

  10. Cool verhaal Twan en Ingeborg. De foto’s zijn echt super vet. Ik snap wel dat Andre jaloers is op die melkweg foto. Veel plezier in India!

  11. Renate Lens-Van Dooren zegt: Beantwoorden

    Door je manier van schrijven, is net alsof we er een heel klein beetje bij ziin. Dat is nog eens leven.

  12. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan weer een fantastisch verhaal en de belevenissen blijven elkaar maar opvolgen. Dat jullie durven met alcohol op 200 meter naar huis te rijden vind ik wel lef hebben 🙂 dan voel je je daar wel thuis. Groetjes Tonny en Eef

  13. Dag lieve reistijgers! Sorry, ik moest even wat blogs inhalen, had er inmiddels alweer een aantal gemist 🙁 Maar man o man wat maken jullie een te gekke trip!! En DIE STERRENFOTO! Wauw! Wat voor camera heb jij Ping? Sowieso zijn al jullie foto’s schitterend, net als de gedetailleerde verhalen. En geweldige zin: ‘It is an unwritten law that travellers won’t interfere with tourists’, wat een waarheid! Ik mis het tot in m’n tenen! Geniet met volle teugen jullie!! Liefs, Prl.

  14. Hoi Twan en Ingeborg.
    Wat een tof verhaal.
    Ik zou graag meer weten over hoe ervaringen, zou je me eventueel kunnen mailen? Alvast bedankt!

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