Motorrijders opgelet! Discover magical India

Het is alweer bijna dertig dagen geleden dat we in India zijn aangekomen. Dat betekent ook dat we op moeten schieten om het land uit de komen aangezien ons visum bijna verloopt. Next destination is Nepal, maar we willen jullie het mooie India natuurlijk niet onthouden (waar we tot nu toe zonder Delhi-belly doorheen zijn gekomen J)! Onze eerste week in India viel een beetje tegen: het regende (wat we vooraf wisten, maar die moesson is toch wel heftig) en het India dat we ons hadden voorgesteld zagen we niet echt terug. De mooie paleizen, tempels, kleurrijke mensen, etc. zagen we niet. Mannen verrekken bijna hun nek als ze me op straat langs zien lopen, vooral als ik een korte broek aan heb.

In Mumbai, waar we zijn aangekomen met het vliegtuig, ontmoeten we Nikhil en zijn vrouw. In Turkije hebben we hen ontmoet op hun achtdaagse vakantie. Veel meer vrij kunnen ze niet krijgen dus gingen ze in een moordend tempo Turkije door om zo veel mogelijk te zien. We gaan met hen naar de Gateway of India. Een soort Arc de Triomph. Het is hét hoogtepunt van Mumbai, oké. Wij zijn dan denk ik niet zo cultureel ingesteld, maar waarom zou je hier perse naartoe willen? Nikhil en vrouwlief vinden het echter erg interessant, dus hangen we er wat rond. Als we verder willen lopen worden we aangesproken door een aantal locals die met ons op de foto willen. Alweer, vanmiddag gebeurde het ook al een paar keer. We vragen ons af waarom, want er komen ladingen toeristen naar Mumbai. Nouja, we doen het maar weer en Nikhil en vrouw lachen zich kapot. “They think you are an Hollywood star and try to remember who you are. Most of the people probably can’t tell them they are wrong, so that’s why they want a picture.” Na een snack (stukje loempia en stukje pizza) gaan we naar de westkust van Mumbai. Er is een mooie boulevard met kade. We gaan lekker zitten en er komen al snel wat bedelaars langs. Nikhil vertelt dat we op dit moment in een rijke buurt van de stad zitten. Er zijn dan ook bedelaars die gewoon in een appartement wonen en met een taxi naar deze wijk komen om te bedelen. Zo verdienen ze nog makkelijk R 1.000 (€ 13) per dag, maar vaak meer. Ook verzamelen ze lege flessen, waar ze inderdaad ook om vragen, zodat ze deze kunnen vullen met kraanwater, dichtplakken en weer verkopen. We lachen er om, maar het is eigenlijk natuurlijk vreselijk triest. Het valt behoorlijk op dat vrouwlief het niet gewend is om vragen te moeten beantwoorden. Bij alles wat ik haar vraag als we van A naar B lopen zegt ze dat Nikhil dat straks wel zal uitleggen. Als ik een aantal keer benadruk dat het voor mij ook goed is als zij gewoon antwoord geeft, begint ze langzaamaan wat te vertellen. Later ondervind ik dit zelf ook aan den lijve: mannen kunnen een heel gesprek aan gaan met Twan maar doen alsof ik niet besta, alsof ik niet gewoon naast hem zit. Ik word niet aangekeken, niet in een gesprek betrokken, niks. Heel apart om dit mee te ervaren.

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Ik maak even een sprongetje in de tijd, sla Goa over en we gaan door naar Delhi. Ik heb gelezen dat het erg leuk is om een riskaw tocht door Old Delhi te maken. Via Tripadvisor hebben we een (blijkbaar) goede en betrouwbare chauffeur gevonden. Hij heet Akbar en is inderdaad als moslim opgegroeid. Akbar fietst ons eerst naar de Spice Market. Het is een mooi gezicht, al die kruiden. Het is allemaal groothandel. Hij vertelt dat de mensen uit Agra, Jaipur en nog een aantal steden naar Delhi komen om hun spullen in te kopen en daar lokaal weer te verkopen. Prijzen kan hij niet noemen, er zijn namelijk zoveel verschillende kwaliteiten te krijgen, en daar is de prijs weer afhankelijk van. Hij brengt ons naar een gebouw waar we naar de bovenste verdieping gaan voor een mooi uitzicht (“Take picture now”). Bij alles wat we zien vandaag heb ik het gevoel dat dit het India is zoals ik het me had voorgesteld. Sowieso is het druk, het is viezig, een man slaat met een stok een rat uit zijn winkeltje. Hij weet hem goed genoeg te raken, het beest tuimelt bloedend de straat op en spartelt daar verder om de volgende klap te ontvangen. Midden op de stoep zitten twee mannen op hun hurken. Als ik beter kijk zie ik een wirwar aan kabeltjes die ze hebben opgegraven. De telefoonlijnen blijken kapot te zijn legt Akbar uit, dus deze mannen proberen het te repareren. Duizenden draadjes zien we, die ze allemaal weer aan elkaar moeten zien te knopen, de juiste aan elkaar. Ze hebben daarom ook een paar (voor ons ouderwetse) telefoons bij zich, die ze aan de draadjes verbinden om te testen of het werkt. Prachtig om te zien, iedereen loopt gewoon om ze heen alsof het de normaalste zaak van de dag is. Wat voor hen waarschijnlijk ook zo is.

Na Delhi reizen we met de bus in zes uur door naar Rishikesh. Dit ligt ten Noorden van Delhi en ligt aan het begin van de Himalaya. We besluiten hier twee motoren te huren en een week op pad te gaan! Het zijn Bajaj Avenger 220 CC’s geworden, geproduceerd in India en prima motoren. We krijgen ze mee voor R 600 (€ 7,80) per motor per dag, geen geld. En ze zouden ook 1:25 moeten rijden! We kopen een kaart van dit gebied met zoveel mogelijk wegen erop. Niet alle wegen blijken op de kaart te staan, met name de kleinere weggetjes naar de kleine dorpjes staan er niet op. Maar hiermee zullen we ons wel redden. Manish, de verhuurder, kleurt met een markeerstift de route en geeft uitleg wat we waar moeten doen. Aanwijzingen als: “Ga niet de rivier over, blijf aan de rechterkant van de rivier. Ben je aan de linkerkant dan ben je te ver gereden.” We gaan dit dus zonder navigatie doen, ik ben benieuwd! We maken een testronde maar er mankeert nog wel het één en ander: Twan z’n motor houd in bij vol gas, heeft geen remlicht, de knipperlichten doen het achter niet (er zit er overigens ook maar één), de voetrem doet het nauwelijks van beiden (wat bij alle Avengers zo is, alsof dat een excuus is) en beiden hebben geen spiegels. Ook stroomt de tank over als we ze op de zijstandaard zetten nadat we hem hebben laten aftoppen. Mijn motor heeft een gek rammeltje dat ik niet thuis kan brengen. Er wordt wat gesleuteld en we krijgen één andere Bajaj, zo zou  het goed moeten komen.

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Het rijden gaat goed, het is natuurlijk even wennen maar het gevoel heb ik al redelijk snel weer te pakken. Wel denk ik nog even bij mezelf: ik heb ongeveer 300km rijervaring opgedaan in Nederland nadat ik mijn rijbewijs heb gehaald, en nu gaan we een acht- of negendaagse tocht maken door de Himalaya! Marco Verbaandert hoor ik af en toe in mijn hoofd: “Zorg dat je al je handelingen hebt gedaan voor de bocht. Hangen in plaats van sturen.” Ome Roel had ook nog een goeie tip: ga in dezelfde versnelling de bult af als dat je omhoog bent gegaan. Maar zodra we een half uur onderweg zijn ben ik niet meer zo zeer bezig met het besturen van de motor. De uitzichten zijn adembenemend! We rijden continu langs de Ganges, en later langs een rivier die later overgaat in de Ganges. De weg kronkelt behoorlijk en vaak zitten er kleine watervalletjes in de haarspeltbochten. Het water stroomt over het wegdek, dus daar rijd je rustig doorheen. Door de vele landslides rijd je vaak over brokken steen, zand en grind. Door de landslides is soms ook een stuk weg weggeslagen, waardoor je over een soort keienpad moet waar water van een watervalletje overheen stroomt. Best avontuurlijk allemaal!

Het probleem van motorrijden in de Himalaya is dat je eigenlijk na elke bocht wilt stoppen om van het uitzicht te genieten en een foto te maken. Uiteraard besluiten we dat niet te doen en enigszins door te rijden, maar zo nu en dan moeten we toch echt even stoppen! Je rijdt dus door, maar na elke bocht wil je ook achterom kijken omdat ook dat uitzicht zo waanzinnig is. Ook niet verstandig natuurlijk. Daarnaast is het oppassen geblazen, want de heilige koeien voelen zichzelf zo op hun gemak hier in India, dat ze lekker in bochten gaan liggen en dus één weghelft in beslag nemen. Met als gevolg dat het tegemoet komende verkeer als een gek op jouw weghelft naar je toe komt. Ook zijn er zo nu en dan flinke gaten en moeten we echt even afremmen. Sowieso rijden we relatief zachtjes: we komen vaak niet boven de 60 km/h uit en als het echt bochterig wordt rijden we tussen de 20 en de 40. Het is fantastisch, ik heb nog nooit zulke mooie uitzichten gezien. De bergen zijn enorm indrukwekkend. Ook Twan geniet met volle teugen en zit continu  met een big smile op zijn gezicht. We worden er helemaal vrolijk van! We vinden het indrukwekkender dan de uitzichten met rijstterrassen in de Filipijnen en Indonesië. Het gaat maar door en gaat maar door, elke bocht weer. Waarom lees je hier niet over in de reisgidsen en kent niemand dit prachtige gebied?

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Na twee dagen rijden komen we aan bij Govindh Ghat, een dorpje op 1.800m hoogte. Er staat een mooie wandeling op het programma: een pelgrimsroute die van Govind Ghat naar het dorpje Ghangaria leidt, om vervolgens door te gaan naar de Hemkund Tempel. Dit is de hoogst gelegen tempel van het Sikh geloof. De aanhangers van dit geloof maken deze pelgrimstocht minimaal één keer in hun leven. Wij zijn echter in eerste instantie gekomen voor de Valley of Flowers, waarvoor je ook eerst naar Ghangaria loopt. Ganghgaria ligt op 3.050m dus een stijging van 1.200m over een afstand van elf kilometer. Het begin van de wandeling gaat prima: van plat naar vals plat naar steeds valser, naar echt vals! Het is gelukkig niet super warm, maar het is wel echt heel zwaar. Twan sjouwt mijn backpack die vermoedelijk 10-12 kg weegt, ik til de dagtas. Op een gegeven moment wisselen we even, waarna ik bijna niet meer omhoog kom. Twan vraagt nog wat er aan de hand is, maar de tas voelt echt lood- en loodzwaar. Na nog geen vijfhonderd meter wisselen we dus alweer en sjouwt hij verder. Het duurt even voordat we doorhebben waarom wij de enige mensen zijn met bagage. Bij de parkeerplaats werden paarden aangeboden. Het is eigenlijk eerder een kruising tussen een ezel en een paard, maar ze worden als paard aangeboden. Wij denken dat dit is om je op naar boven te laten brengen, maar als we ze langs zien komen zit er soms een dikke Indiër op maar ze zijn meestal volgepakt met bagage! Hm, als we dat hadden geweten hadden we dat misschien ook wel gedaan.

De mensen die Engels spreken laten het niet om ons aan te spreken. Sommigen kunnen een heel gesprek voeren en laten dat ook niet, anderen kunnen alleen vragen: “Which country?”. Op het moment dat één van de jongens die we inhalen dit vraagt komen we net langs een ‘cafeetje’. Als ik vervolgens drie keer herhaal dat we uit Holland komen en hij het snapt, stopt hij met lopen en roept tegen alle mensen die even zitten uit te puffen: “Did you see them, did you see them? They are from Holland!” Ook wordt aan Twan gevraagd waarom hij zo kort haar heeft. De uitleg dat hij bijna geen haar meer op zijn hoofd heeft lijkt geen goede reden! Continu worden foto’s van ons gemaakt, gevraagd en ongevraagd. Als we bijna boven zijn heb ik echt geen kracht meer voor een foto, ik wil alleen nog maar dat we er zijn. Net als gister storten we rond etenstijd helemaal in. Twan neemt een noodlesoup, ik roti’s met suiker omdat ik even geen zin heb in een normaal Indiaas gerecht. Ik knap er niet echt van op, Twan wel en is weer springlevend. Hij beseft zich opeens dat we ons kapot zweten, wel veel water drinken en een blikje cola per persoon hebben gehad om de suikers weer op peil te brengen, maar de zouten hebben we niet aangevuld. Ik neem dus een ORS en inderdaad, ook ik voel me binnen tien minuten weer een stuk beter. Een wijze les dus, zorg niet alleen voor vocht, maar ook voor je uitgezwete zouten!

Omdat al deze mensen deze zware hike maken om de Hemkund Tempel te bezoeken, besluiten wij dat we daar ook naartoe moeten. Vanaf het dorp is het echter nog een behoorlijke klim, de tempel ligt namelijk boven de 4.300m. Dat betekent dus een stijging van zo’n 1.300m over een traject van zes kilometer. De weg naar boven lijkt eigenlijk minder zwaar dan onze klim van gister. Wonder boven wonder stappen we aardig goed door. Op een gegeven moment begint het te druppelen en trekken we onze vesten aan. Niet veel later besluiten we snel onze jassen aan te doen om het vest droog te houden. Het begint te stortregenen maar er is geen plek om te schuilen. Ons tempo gaat omhoog, evenals de ademhaling als Twan roept: “Een winkeltje, schuilen!” Hij versnelt zijn pas maar ik vertraag volgens mij alleen maar, die hoogte heeft toch wel invloed op je ademhaling. Na vermoedelijk ruim drie uur gelopen te hebben komen we bij het laatste cafeetje onderweg. Op dat punt is een splitsing: of je volgt het pad nog anderhalve kilometer, of je neemt 924 traptreden omhoog. Wij kiezen voor de trap. In Nederland is de optrede van een trap gemiddeld zo’n twintig centimeter hoog. Doe dat maal 924 en je komt 185 meter hoger uit. Deze traptreden zijn echter wat hoger en lopen dus ook niet heel comfortabel. We vermoeden dat we tussen de driehonderd en vierhonderd hoogtemeters afleggen op deze trap, wat betekent dat we rond de vierduizend meter hoogte starten. Tot het moment dat we aan de trap beginnen hield ik het verbazingwekkend goed vol. Ik ging helemaal niet zo kapot als gisteren. Maar na vijf treden begint het al: onze hartslag gaat als een gek omhoog en het wordt moeilijker om te ademen. We maken elke keer een slag van zo’n dertig tot zestig treden en moeten dan even uitrusten. Hoe hoger we komen, hoe zwaarder ik het krijg. Ik begin te zwalken, word licht in mijn hoofd, mijn vingertoppen lijken gevoelloos en begin me een beetje misselijk te voelen. Zelfs als het eind in zicht is en we nog zo’n tachtig treden moeten wil ik het bijna opgeven. Toch lopen we door, hand in hand (niet zozeer voor de romantiek maar om mij op het rechte pad te houden) en halen uiteindelijk de top. Ik voel me hondsberoerd, ben ijskoud omdat mijn hemd en shirt doorweekt zijn van het zweet en het vermoedelijk maar zo’n vijf graden is.  De Sikh aanhangers doen deze tocht minimaal eens keer in hun leven en kijken er allemaal naar uit om de tempel te bereiken. Op het moment dat wij naar het meer lopen naast de tempel en terugkijken, kunnen we maar één ding tegen elkaar zeggen: “Wat een afschuwelijk, lelijke tempel!” “Wat een lelluk ding!” Twan heeft gisteravond nog een heel lelijk oranje petje gekocht, omdat je je hoofd moet bedekken als je hier bent. Ik houd mijn capuchon op. We staan met onze handen in de ‘Namastee’ houding naar een soort altaar te kijken waar de mensen knielen, buigingen maken en bidden. Ik voel me hondsberoerd en zeg tegen Twan: “Ik moet denk ik binnen nu en vijf minuten overgeven, zo beroerd ben ik, dus misschien is het beter als we weer gaan afdalen.” We trekken dus snel onze schoenen weer aan en gaan naar beneden. Zodra we weer een stuk het pad naar beneden wandelen voel ik me steeds beter. Ik ben weer scherp in mijn hoofd, mijn handen tintelen als een malle en de misselijkheid gaat geleidelijk aan over. “Jos en Nadia zouden dit moeten horen, die lachen zich kapot. Een week geleden wisten we nog niet eens dat we naar Noord-India zouden gaan. Inmiddels lopen we met de motor naar 1.800 meter gereden en daarna binnen twee dagen naar naar 4.350 meter hoogte gestegen zonder al te veel voorbereiding en de pillen tegen hoogteziekte nog in onze backpack die we in Rishikesh hebben achtergelaten.” “Misschien niet heel verstandig,” zegt Twan, “maar zeker een mijlpaal want we zijn nog nooit zo hoog geweest!”

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We hebben een paar dagen geleden al van iemand gehoord dat er een landslide dicht bij het dorp Govindh Ghat is geweest. Daar zijn een moeder en kind bij omgekomen. Als we weer terug bij de motoren zijn rijden we de volgende dag verder. We rijden een paar kilometer en komen langs een zanderig stuk weg waar inderdaad een landslide is geweest. De mensen zijn nog bezig om de weg weer goed vrij te maken en de zone veilig te stellen. Honderd meter verderop staat een autowrak. Het is ooit een jeep-achtig model geweest, maar de auto zit helemaal in elkaar. Gatver wat vreselijk om te zien. Zo komt het toch wel heel dichtbij allemaal. Een kwestie van op het verkeerde moment op de verkeerde plek zijn, wat ons net zo goed zou kunnen overkomen. We rijden maar snel verder.

Ik heb het gevoel dat we hier echt technisch hebben leren motorrijden. In Nederland houdt iedereen zich redelijk goed aan de verkeersregels en zijn bochten voorspelbaar. Hier is dat wel anders. Je bent niet alleen maar op het verkeer aan het letten, je moet op veel meer dingen letten.

Zowel voetgangers als verkeersdeelnemers kijken niet links of rechts als ze de weg oversteken of opdraaien. Ze verwachten dat je toetert, waarop ze pas omkijken. Levensgevaarlijk dus af en toe. Ook inhalen in de bochten is geen uitzondering. We doen er zelf eerlijk gezegd ook aan mee, Twan met een brede grijns, maar wanneer een auto een vrachtauto in een bocht inhaalt moet je toch weer even uitwijken. Om het nog even bij de bochten te houden, overal op straat lopen dieren. Koeien en buffels lijken het lekker te vinden om in een bocht te gaan liggen. Je moet dus behoorlijk alert zijn. De bochten zelf zijn vaak zo gemaakt dat je niet door de bocht kunt kijken. In Nederland hebben bochten vaak een constante straal, hier niet. Hij begint flauw, maar voordat je het weet moet je flink remmen en terugschakelen om niet op de andere weghelft uit te komen als je de binnenbocht hebt. Tijdens mijn rijlessen leerde ik van Marco om voor de bocht al je handelingen te hebben verricht en moet je vooruitkijken en niet naar beneden kijken vlak voor je wiel, zodat je al ‘gasgevend’ de bocht door kan. Hier gaat deze theorie niet op en moet je in 80% van de gevallen bijremmen, bijsturen en terugschakelen om gecontroleerd de bocht door te komen. Ook ligt er vaak grind en zand in de bochten, waardoor je moet oppassen dat je niet wegglijdt en dus wél dichtbij voor je wiel moet kijken. Ook de vele watervalletjes en waterstroompjes die over de weg gaan zorgen ervoor dat het behoorlijk glad kan zijn. We hebben dan ook meer dan eens de voorwielen voelen wegglijden. En dan zijn er nog de fantastische uitzichten die je niet wilt missen. Al met al genoeg reden om aan het eind van de dag, na 150 km te hebben gereden, helemaal kapot te zijn.

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Na deze fantastische week zijn we nog maar even cultuur gaan snuiven in Jaipur (waar we met een bejaarden groepsreis twee keer gratis een museum inlopen!) en Agra waar we de Taj Mahal bezoeken. Zo heerlijk koel als het in de bergen was, zo bloedheet (35-40 graden) is het hier. We zweten ons een ongeluk, maar zijn blij dat we ook de locals met de parels op hun voorhoofd zien.

We hebben nog twee dagen in India te gaan: vanavond nemen we de nachttrein naar Varanasi, een stad aan de Ganges waar elke avond ceremonies plaatsvinden. Vanaf daar zullen we met een misselijkmakende bus de Himalaya door trekken om naar Pokhara te gaan, de stad waar we ons gaan voorbereiden op het Anapurna Circuit dat we gaan lopen in twee à drie weken tijd. Wil jij ondertussen eens wat anders eten? Zoek een recept op voor Dal Makhani of Chole Bhature, onze favorieten hier!

Klik hier weer door voor de overige foto’s van India.

300 reacties

  1. Wij wisten al dat je een filmster bent. ( blond) Nu weten de gasten in India het ook .
    Weer een fantastisch verslag van jullie belevenissen.
    Die motortrip door de Himalaya ben ik wel jaloers op, wat een prachtige omgeving………supermooi.
    Die trap naar de tempel zou ik overgeslagen hebben…………ppppffffftttt.
    ‘Take care, and have fun’
    Knuffels , en geef Twan een paar vriendschappelijke stompen van me.
    Groet, …………….ook van Joke natuurlijk

  2. Oh shit!! Ik heb mij per ongeluk uit geschreven nu kan ik niet meer van jullie mooie verhalen genieten!!!!! Kunnen jullie dit herstellen???

    Schitterend jullie laatste verslag van India en heel herkenbaar; hebben wij in 2008 gedaan; daarna ook naar Nepal geweest!!!! Zo’n lieve mensen daar!!! Nog veel plezier!!!!

  3. Lieve Ingeborg en Twan, fijn weer zo’n hele serie foto’s. Daarmee gaat het verhaal ook weer meer leven. De gebouwen zijn leuk, maar met name de foto’s met de mensen uit India laten zien dat jullie een ‘bijzonderheid’ zijn. Volgens mij komen er ook niet zoveel toeristen in de streken waar jullie zijn. Veel plezier richting Nepal. Ga je toevallig nog in Nepal naar Maggie Doyne (BlinkNow.org – ‘moeder’ van 50 kinderen)? Groetjes, kusjes, hou je goed! Dorien en Ton

  4. Weer een prachtig verhaal ,heel herkenbaar voor ons nu genieten van de tracking in Nepal.

    Groetjes j en s

  5. De indrukwekkende ervaringen blijven zich opstapelen, zo blijkt uit de India-story. Hele mooie en minder prettige zoals het als vrouw niet voor vol worden aangezien. Nou ja, zo gaat het kennelijk in deze cultuur. Maar uit de story blijkt wel overduidelijk dat motortrip boven aan het lijstje komt te staan! Puur genieten zo blijkt uit jullie verhaal en uit de foto’s. Was het overigens niet mogelijk om gewoon met de motor naar boven te gaan ipv omhoog te ploeteren met een backpack op rug…. Maar goed, geweldige rit!!
    En nu dus op naar het Anapurna Circuit. Heb even gekeken, wordt niet minder heftig, zo lijkt het!! Enjoy!!! Kus van Roos en pa.

  6. Hallo Jongelui weer een fantastisch verhaal en mooie foto’s. Wel bij zonder land dat India en hoe de cultuur daar is, dat kunnen wij ons niet voorstellen. Herken wel de foto’s, kunnen jullie je voorstellen dat Sven in India een jaar heeft gewoond en gewerkt. Toen ik het stapelbed zag moest ik daar gelijk aan denken, zo woonde hij ook. Veel plezier in Nepal en we wachten weer op jullie verhaal en foto’s. Groetjes!

    1. Hoihoi! Super leuk dat jullie elke keer reageren op onze verhalen! Moesten vaak aan Sven denken in India, wij konden het ons namelijk totaal niet voorstellen om hier te wonen. Lijkt ons heel apart! Groetjes uit Nepal

  7. ‘Take picture now’, hahaha!

  8. Goed verhaal weer, hopelijk hebben jullie de hoogtes in Nepal beter overleefd 😉 Heel erg benieuwd naar de foto’s en belevingen daar!

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