De Thorong La Pass getrotseerd!

Jullie denken vermoedelijk allemaal dat wij geen zak uitvoeren, maar we zijn hartstikke sportief bezig geweest afgelopen weken: de Annapurna Circuit die wij hebben gelopen wordt als één van de meest toegankelijke treks ter wereld beschouwd, omdat je zonder al te veel ervaring de pas van 5.416m hoogte kunt bereiken. Een hoogte die wel wat spelregels met zich mee brengt, maar zodra je je aan die spelregels houdt kun je zonder problemen het letterlijke en figuurlijke hoogtepunt van de tocht bereiken. Ik denk zelfs dat we nog nooit van ons leven zo lang achter elkaar intensief gesport hebben. En uiteraard zonder al te veel training en voorbereiding, zoals we dat graag doen J

In Pokhara, een gezellig toeristenplaatsje maar waar het relatief rustig is, doen we de nodige voorbereidingen: we schaffen de permits aan, kopen we nog wat kleding, sneldrogende handdoeken (cotton is rotten), zoek ik uit wat hoogteziekte is en hoe je het voorkomt en kopen we Piyush: waterzuiveringsdruppeltjes zodat we zelfs het water uit de Ganges zouden kunnen drinken. Bij wijze van spreken dan. Ik knip The Annapurna Circuit op in stukken per dag en bepaalt Twan wat we mee gaan sjouwen en wat we achterlaten. We eindigen uiteindelijk met 15,5kg in de backpack en 9,5kg in de dagtas, exclusief de wandelstokken maar inclusief water. Klaar voor vertrek!

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Na een busrit van zo’n vijf uur komen we aan in Ngadi, waar we onze ‘wandeling’ van twee weken gaat beginnen. De eerste meters die we lopen voelen wat onwennig, met name doordat je continu omhoog loopt en de backpack op je rug hebt waar je de komende tijd uit moet leven. Tijdens onze eerste zoektocht naar een overnachtingsplek zijn we wat onwennig. We hebben wel gelezen dat je vaak gratis kunt overnachten als je je avondeten en ontbijt bij hetzelfde teahouse nuttigt, maar toch voelt het als (gierige) Nederlander raar om in Nepal te vragen of je gratis mag blijven slapen. De teahouses zijn in de loop van de tijd uitgegroeid tot hotelletjes en restaurants, met vrij basic kamers:

  • De ruimtes worden gescheiden door spaanplaten muren. Geluidstechnisch gezien had je net zo goed bij je buurman en buurvrouw in bed kunnen liggen.
  • Vaak staan er twee eenpersoonsbedden. Dit in combinatie met de dunne scheidingswanden hoef je als stel dus niet al te veel ‘gezelligheid’ te verwachten.
  • De matrassen zijn knetterhard (maar liggen overigens prima).
  • Het beddengoed wordt veelal niet verschoond. Wij blij dat we onze slaapzakken uit Namibië al die tijd hebben meegesleept!
  • Als je geluk hebt heb je een hurktoilet bij je kamer. En ja, even hurken en een kunstje doen op je eigen wc is nog altijd beter dan ’s nachts door het donker op zoek te moeten naar de wc en daar de andere kunstwerken te moeten aanschouwen.
  • De (gedeelde) douche heeft vaak warm water, om in te spelen op de behoefte van zweterige toeristen. Soms wordt het water verwarmd door zonnecollectoren, maar vaak blijft het bij een koolmonoxide dampende geiser naast de douchekop. Maar ‘vaak’ is niet voor niets niet ‘altijd’: een met hout gestookt fornuis (waar je schoenen overigens prima onder drogen als ze nat zijn van het zweet) waar een waterleiding onderdoor loopt wordt namelijk ook verkocht als ’24 hour hot shouwer,’ waardoor je dus gewoon staat te blauwbekken in het houten hokje.

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Tijdens het ontbijt zien we meteen wie dit écht serieus nemen en wie, net als wij, iets minder tijd hebben besteed aan de voorbereidingen. De ‘echten’ hebben ‘echte’ merkkleding aan dat er kwalitatief ook echt goed uit ziet en ook echt voor wandelen is bedoeld. Ze zien er fit en getraind uit en zijn ruim voor vertrek (al) begonnen met lange afstanden lopen, lopen met een aantal kilo’s op hun rug en het uitproberen van hun spullen. Ook maken ze, voordat ze ’s ochtends aan de volgende tocht beginnen, nog even een wandeling door het dorp om de spieren lekker op te warmen. Ik daarentegen loop in een hardloopbroekje en –shirtje. De wandelstokken die we gebruiken zijn tweedehands uit Pokhara (en één paar blijkt dus ook continu weer in elkaar te schuiven en sjouwen we dus voor Jan Lul mee de berg op) en leveren we weer in als we terug zijn. We hebben in ons leven nooit serieus gewandeld in Nederland, laat staan in de bergen. En het sjouwen met kilo’s op je rug zijn we al helemaal niet gewend.

Wij lopen de route aan de hand van de NATT-guide (New Annapurna Trekking Trails). Deze gids, niet meer dan een Word-documentje, is geschreven door een Duitser die al tientallen keren in de Himalaya heeft gelopen, en een Nepalees. Hij ergerde zich aan het feit dat de Annapurna Circuit zo moeilijk te volgen was, dus heeft hij samen met de Nepalees wit/rode vlaggetjes op rotsen en huisjes geschilderd om zo de route aan te geven. Soms is er een sidetrack: een alternatief pad dat hoger of lager loopt, of juist een zijtak is van de hoofdroute. Hier moeten we de wit/blauwe vlaggetjes volgen. Het voelt een beetje als spoorzoekertje voor gevorderden!

Het schijnt dat er (eind september/begin oktober) dagelijks zo’n 100 mensen starten aan de tocht. Toch komen we onderweg weinig mensen tegen. En dat voelt heerlijk: uren lopen we alleen door de valleien, genieten we van de uitzichten en hoef je geen mensen tegen te houden als je even moet plassen (of poepen, ook dat kan spontaan opkomen!). Ik had het niet gedacht, maar ik heb er echt plezier in gekregen, dat wandelen in de bergen. De locals die we tegenkomen zijn stuk voor stuk enorm vrolijk. Waar er in Nederland op een vakantie ’s ochtends nog net een nors “Morghuh” vanaf kan, wordt het “Namastee” op de berg bijna gezongen, luidkeels nog een keer herhaald en wordt er vrolijk bij geknikt. Ook door de dragers die aan het werk zijn en die soms wel 35 kilo bagage van (in onze ogen luie) toeristen op hun rug meesleuren.

 

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En zo lopen we zes dagen achter elkaar door, overwegend bult op maar de Himalaya zou de Himalaya niet zijn als je ook vaak genoeg weer naar beneden loopt. Soms om een riviertje over te steken, soms omdat het pad nu eenmaal zo loopt. Effectief lopen we de hoogtemeters dus zeker wel 1,5 keer. Goed voor strakke billen, benen en de vetverbranding. We lazen dat je bij stevig bergwandelen tot wel 500kcal per uur verbrandt, dus reken maar uit hoeveel eten we naar binnen stouwen in de vorm van mueslirepen en rijst om aan die behoefte te voldoen! De uitzichten zijn grandioos: we beginnen in een bosachtig landschap: werkelijk overal waar je kijkt is het groen. Naarmate we hoger komen zien we steeds meer naaldbomen, om uiteindelijk alleen nog maar wat heideachtige begroeiing zien, waarna we al snel de boomgrens bereiken. De boomgrens ligt hier een stuk hoger dan in de Alpen, pas op zo’n 4.000m.

Het eten is relatief eentonig en elk hotelletje heeft nagenoeg dezelfde menukaart. Om voldoende voedingstoffen binnen te krijgen bestaat ons ontbijt voornamelijk uit havermout met appel en een kop thee (hier hoef ik niet te kokhalzen van de havermout omdat er standaard drie lepels suiker doorheen zitten). Als lunch eten we elke dag dal bhat (door de gidsen en dragers ook wel ‘dal bhat power, 24hour’ genoemd): rijst, aardappelcurry, een linzensoep en vaak gewokte groenten. Het is een all-you-can-eat formule, dus proppen we onszelf helemaal vol elke dag. ’s Avonds nemen we vaak loempia’s, mo-mo’s (nationaal Nepalees gerecht: gestoomde, met groente of vlees gevulde deegballetjes, het lijkt op de Chinese dumpling) en noodles. En onze mueslirepen als tussendoortje niet te vergeten: om geen ingevallen bekkies te krijgen hebben we twee kilo repen en een voorraadje Marsen ingeslagen en meegesjouwd de berg op!

 

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In Braka houden we na zes dagen (lopen als berggeiten) een rustdag. Niet alleen om onze benen wat rust te gunnen, maar ook om aan de hoogte te wennen. We zitten nu op 3.500m hoogte en je lichaam heeft tijd nodig om te acclimatiseren. Vanaf 3.000m hoogte kun je namelijk hoogteziekte gaan ervaren. Maar we doen niet helemaal niets, we maken wel nog een acclimatisatie tocht naar een grot op 4.000m. Dé regel is namelijk: walk high, sleep low. In Braka is ook voor het eerst sinds we aan het lopen zijn een hotel met een bakkerijtje. Het grappige is, of eigenlijk is het helemaal niet grappig maar wel typisch om te merken, dat ik sinds we in dit hotel zijn en wit brood eten, kaneelbroodjes en (vega) burgers met ook weer brood, ik enorme buikkrampen heb. Blijkbaar vindt mijn maag- en darmstelsel rijst een stuk fijner!

Zodra we onze weg vervolgen, nemen we een sidetrack (van 3 dagen) naar Tilicho Tal: het hoogstgelegen meer ter wereld. Het meer ligt op 4.900m hoogte en het Tilicho Base Camp, waar we zullen overnachten, ligt op 4.200m hoogte. De vuistregel is dat je vanaf 3.500m hoogte niet meer dan 500-600m per dag mag stijgen, maar met onze acclimatisatietocht meegenomen gaat 700m net. Met lichte hoofdpijn maar zonder ernstige verschijnselen komen we na een lange dag aan in het Base Camp. De hoogte beginnen we te merken, maar die merken we de volgende morgen pas echt goed als we de klim naar het meer maken. Voetje voor voetje schuifelen we langs de bergwand omhoog. Mijn hart gaat als een razende tekeer en je benen voelen zwaar, alles dankzij wat minder zuurstof in de lucht. Maar na 3 uur klimmen komen we bij het meer aan, wauw het is echt prachtig, het lijkt zelfs bijna nep zo mooi!

 

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Op de terugweg, in het dorpje Shreekarka, ontmoeten we Linda en Timo: een stel uit Amsterdam die beiden ook in Eindhoven hebben gestudeerd. De volgende ochtend vervolgen we met z’n vieren onze weg om na twee dagen lopen aan te komen in Thorong Phedi, ook wel Lower Camp genoemd onder de wandelaars. Dit ligt op 4.400m hoogte en veel mensen vertrekken ’s ochtends vroeg om vanaf hier de Thorong La Pass over te steken: hét letterlijke en figuurlijke hoogtepunt van deze trekking. Ons plan was om nog naar High Camp (4.900m) door te lopen, maar het begint te miezeren en al snel komt het met bakken uit de hemel. Onze eerste regen, tot nu toe hebben we elke dag in de stralende zon gelopen. Door de hoogte en de regen is het meteen koud en droogt niets meer, dus zijn we blij dat we droog binnen zitten. Dan morgen maar een langere dag en overnachten we dus hier.

Als we de volgende ochtend wakker worden is het droog en begint het op te klaren. Om 06.15 uur zijn we alle vier klaar voor vertrek en lopen we een zware dag tegemoet: 1.000 hoogtemeters omhoog tot een hoogte van 5.416 meter, om vervolgens weer 1.600 hoogtemeters af te dalen. Ik zie er letterlijk als een berg tegenop, ondanks het feit dat de NATT-guide schrijft: After being on Tilicho Tal you will just walk over Thorong La perfectly acclimated and whistling a little tune! Al zal dit meer op de hoogteziekte slaan dan het feit dat deze klim zo makkelijk is. Het eerste stuk stijging van 500m naar High Camp wordt beschreven in diezelfde gids als ‘de vreselijke vijfenveertig minuten van je leven die je niet snel meer zult vergeten.’ De helling staat onder vijfenveertig graden en we lopen op een enorme hoogte. We lopen met z’n vieren in een treintje: Timo, Linda, Twan en ik schuifel achteraan. Voetje voor voetje stappen we langzaam naar boven zonder ook maar een woord te zeggen. De lucht begint namelijk op te klaren en het zonnetje breekt door. “Ik ga helemaal kapot van de hitte, even stoppen jongens!” gil ik naar voren. Ik krijg het niet voor elkaar om de zin in één adem uit te spreken, dus het klinkt meer als: “Ik ga helemaal…….. kapot…….. van de hitte…….., even stoppen…….. jongens!” Je kunt je in Nederland bijna niet voorstellen, dat je met een tempo van drie keer niks, toch helemaal buiten adem bent. Iets minder zuurstof in de lucht en ons lichaam begint meteen te sputteren. Het uitzicht daarbij wordt hoe hoger we komen hoe mooier. We zien een muur van besneeuwde bergen, onvoorstelbaar dat deze toppen meer dan zeven kilometer hoog zijn omdat we zelf ook al flink hoog zitten. Iedereen trekt wat kleren uit, we nemen een slok water en verzamelen weer de moed om door te lopen. We hebben af en toe een lichte hoofdpijn, maar die trekt ook snel weer weg.

En dan, toch nog eerder dan we verwacht hadden, zien we veel gekleurde vlaggetjes in de verte. Jawel hoor, dat is de top! Het laatste stukje lopen we hand in hand, en als we dicht genoeg bij het bord zijn om te kunnen lezen “Thorang-La Pass 5.416m. Congratulations for the succes” knijpt Twan met een grote grijns op zijn gezicht in mijn hand en schieten de tranen in mijn ogen. We hebben het gewoon gedaan! Wauw wat voelt dit als een overwinning, ik ben echt enorm trots op onszelf. Lui als we soms zijn, zijn we toch mooi de meesten voorbij gelopen hier naar boven en bereiken we gewoon zonder problemen de top. Zo erg als ik er vanmorgen tegenop zag, zo relatief makkelijk hebben we het topje bereikt!

 

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Nadat we de Thorong La Pass over zijn, is het landschap compleet anders. Het lijkt meer een woestijn: droog, zanderig en nauwelijks begroeiing. Het is gek hoe erg je blijkbaar naar dat moment toeleeft. Nu we het letterlijke en figuurlijke hoogtepunt van deze trekking bereikt hebben, voelen we ons moe en uitgeput. Niet zo gek ook: we hebben 13 dagen gelopen, onze bagage gesjouwd, elke dag hetzelfde gegeten en in vieze bedden geslapen. We zijn er voor nu even helemaal klaar mee. Het is tijd voor wat meer comfort, ander eten en een andere bezigheid. Samen met Linda en Timo zetten we dus koers terug naar Pokhara.

De terugreis, tja, dat was er één om nooit te vergeten. Maar nog even geduld, dit bewaar ik voor in het boek dat ik aan het schrijven ben. Voor diegenen die nog niet op de hoogte zijn: mijn boek wordt geen reisdagboek, maar zal juist de (on)gemakken, bijzonderheden en onze ongezouten mening weergeven van wat we zien, horen en meemaken. Wat een leuk idee als cadeau voor onder de kerstboom volgend jaar!

Na bijgekomen te zijn in Pokhara, midden in de nacht de kakkerlakken in een hotelletje te zijn ontvlucht, een poging tot mountainbiken te hebben gedaan die mislukte en waar we een week lang zadelpijn aan over hebben gehouden, een poging tot raften te hebben gedaan die mislukte na het zien van de rivier omdat je daar een kind van vijf nog in een bootje zou durven zetten, reisden we op de bus (ja, op inderdaad) naar Kathmandu, waar we met name veel lekker lokaal hebben gegeten in vieze garageboxen, althans zo zien de lokale restaurantjes er uit. Waar Rob Geus zich toch druk om maakt in Nederland begrijpen we inmiddels niet meer, het smaakt er namelijk niet minder om!

Wat staat er verder op het programma: morgen vliegen we Kuala Lumpur, om onszelf even te verwennen in een vijf sterren hotel, om twee dagen later door te vliegen naar Johan (broer) en Phuong Anh (schoonzus) in Myanmar. Daar wacht een paar kilo drop en speculaas op ons, yeah!

En hierbij natuurlijk weer de link naar de foto’s.

2.817 reacties

  1. WoW geweldig wat een tocht ,ben trots op jullie dat jullie het gehaald hebben TOPPIE.
    De foto s zijn gewoon ansichtkaarten prachtig.
    Ga maar lekker genieten in 5 sterren en zie jullie over 3 weken in myamar.

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  2. Alle narigheid ten spijt is het natuurlijk grote rijkdom dat jullie dit doen , en je cultuurbagage een flinke ‘boost’ geeft. Wat een prachtige verhalen weten jullie over je belevenissen te vertellen. Top! En dat boek ga ik zeker kopen …..inderdaad een mooi kerstkado.
    Doe Johan en Phong An de groeten van ons.
    Kussen en knuffels van Ons

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  3. Hallo Ingeborg en twan,

    Wat een mooi en bijzonder verhaal, en jullie maken zoveel moois maar ook minder moois mee. Het is elke keer weer leuk om het te lezen.

    Wij wensen jullie nog veel moois toe.

    Groeten Bennie en Pia

    Ps. Ingeborg het gaat met mij prima. Nu 24,5 kg afgevallen.

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  4. Geweldig, wat een mooie belevenissen in een fascinerende entourage! Prachtig verwoord, heerlijk om te lezen! Het hoogste punt bereiken met een traan in de ogen, kan het me helemaal voorstellen. Net zoals jullie trots op jezelf zijn zijn wij dat op jullie!! Nu ff genieten in KL en door naar Myanmar, een mooi vooruitzicht. Enjoy, vette knuffel van ons.

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  5. Wat een leuk verslag om te lezen. Super om zo elke keer een beetje op de hoogte te blijven.
    Groetjes aan Johan en Phuong Anh

  6. Lieve Ingeborg en Twan,
    Wat een mooie foto’s en wat een mooi verhaal. We zijn erg benieuwd naar het boek. Doe de groeten aan Phuong Anh en Johan. Groetjes en kusjes en goede vlucht morgen.
    Dorien en Ton

  7. Ha zusje en Twanus,

    Super om te lezen! Het wandelen zit je niet bepaald in de genen 😉

    Wij zijn helemaal klaar voor jullie bezoek. Geniet even van de luxe en het comfort in KL, want in Myanmar is het weer back to basics. Jullie mogen bij ons de tent opzetten in de tuin 😉

    Dikke kus,

    Johan

    P.S. Ik ben nog steeds niet afgevallen, flink balen wel

    1. Ik zei al tegen Twan: hij heeft nog steeds een dikke kop (als reactie op de foto die pa stuurde!). Wij zijn wel wat afgevallen, stukje lopen in Nepal doet wonderen! 😉

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  8. Yeah baby, Thorong La! Gaaf, cool om te lezen en te zien -wat is de Himalaya toch ongelooflijk gaaf.

  9. He Twan en Bannetje,
    Ik zit elke keer vol bewondering jullie verhaal te lezen en ik vind het erg knap en gaaf dat jullie dat doen. Van het af en toe sporten naar serieuze klimtochten. Respect.
    Ik wens jullie verder een mooie reis en geniet ervan. Maar dat doen jullie, dat is duidelijk.

    Groetjes
    Rem

    1. Hey Rem, hoe is het in Amersfoort!?
      Super leuk dat je nog steeds meeleest!
      X Ban

      1. Hier alles goed. Per 1 november wel een nieuwe job. Als projectmanager bij een kleiner installatiebedrijf in Arnhem. Maar we houden contact hoor. Goeie reis verder.
        x Rem

  10. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan,
    De foto’s bewijzen dat jullie NIET stil hebben gezeten, wat een fantastische tocht. Het afzien op hoogte en temperaturen is wel indrukwekkend, TOP. Nu weer even meer luxe en genieten met z’n allen. Groeten aan Johan en Phuong Anh en veel plezier in Myanmar. Nog even dit het mountainbiken doe ik toch maar in het Bergerbos 🙂
    Lieve groetjes Tonny en Eef

  11. Prachtige verhalen, ben onder de indruk, maar het begint bij mij niet te kriebelen gelukkig 😉
    Na een nachtje Munster vonden wij het weer prima om weer thuis te zijn 😂
    Geniet van de reis en ik zie uit naar jullie volgende belevenissen.
    Groetjes, Vincent en Joke

    1. Haha gelukkig dat niet iedereen de kriebels ervan krijgt, anders zou het veel te druk worden onderweg!
      Leuk dat jullie meelezen, in het volgende bericht ook foto’s van Jan en Sjanie! 🙂
      X Ons

  12. Wat Prachtig!!! Een fantastische reis!! Heerlijk om te lezen; en de laatste foto’s heel herkenbaar van Kathmandu!! Geniet van de rest en ik zie uit naar jullie volgend verslag!!
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