Tempels en een gezellig weerzien!

Voordat we naar Myanmar vlogen hebben we 48 uur in Kuala Lumpur doorgebracht. Na twee primitieve maanden in India en Nepal was dit wel even wat anders. Lekker eten, eindelijk weer eens een wijntje drinken, naar de bioscoop en lekker uitslapen. Ik denk dat we na 48 uur twee kilo zwaarder waren! In het vliegtuig naar Yangon krijg ik de kriebels in mijn buik: ik heb enorm veel zin om in Myanmar te zijn. Ten eerste om Johan en Phuong Anh weer te zien, ten tweede komen Jan en Sjanie hier ook naartoe en ten derde is het een prachtig land om te gaan ontdekken.

Op Yangon International Airport staan Johan en Phuong Anh ons op te wachten. Een beetje raar voelt het wel: normaliter zien we ze alleen in Nederland, nu zijn we opeens in ‘hun’ land! We hebben nog niets voor onze rondreis door Myanmar voorbereid, dus we doen het lekker rustig aan en genieten van de tijd samen en hun fijne huis.

Uiteraard staat er op de volgende dag een bezoek aan de fabriek van De Heus op het programma. (De Heus produceert veevoer, de fabriek in Yangon is recent opgeleverd en sinds één maand operationeel). Onderweg  lunchen we bij een lokaal en goed restaurant. Het ziet er uit als een vreetschuur, wat het ook wel een beetje is, maar het eten smaakt helemaal prima. Johan en Twan selecteren bij het buffet wat we willen eten, wat vervolgens netjes in schalen op tafel wordt gezet. Het eten doet me een beetje aan Thailand en Vietnam denken: rijst, groenten, vis of vlees apart in een saus/marinade en een soep erbij. Johan wil nog graag een kop koffie. Na een paar minuten is er nog steeds niets gebracht dus steekt hij zijn hand in de lucht om een ober te wenken. De bediening heeft het niet in de gaten, dus maakt hij een kusgeluidje. Doe niet zo aso, wil ik nog tegen hem zeggen, maar direct draait een ober zich om en komt naar ons toe. “Dat is heel normaal hier, je kunt roepen wat je wilt, maar als je één keer dat geluid maakt komen ze meteen. De lokalen doen het ook, hoort er blijkbaar bij,” zegt hij met een grijns. Het is een andere ober, maar ook hij bevestigt dat de koffie er aan komt. Vervolgens komt er een derde langs om te vragen of er suiker in moet of niet. Nee, geen suiker. Nummer één komt uiteindelijk weer terug om te vertellen dat ze helemaal geen koffie hebben. Heerlijk dit!

 

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Onderweg naar de fabriek, het is ongeveer anderhalf uur rijden, krijgen we een beetje een indruk van Yangon. En al heel snel blijkt (en dit zal later als we het land door reizen nogmaals bevestigd worden): mijn beeld van Myanmar is totaal verkeerd! Ik had verwacht dat er wel wegen zijn natuurlijk, maar dat er nog heel veel mensen geen eigen vervoersmiddel hebben, laat staan een auto. Ik had weinig stenen gebouwen verwacht, maar meer houten en rieten huisjes. Niet alleen in de countryside, maar ook in Yangon. In mijn gedachten zijn de mensen nog een beetje ‘wereldvreemd’. Technologie zou hier nog niet gearriveerd zijn. Maar nee hoor: er zijn prima wegen, zelfs met markering. Soms heb je een voetpad langs de weg. Ook buiten de grote steden zie je huizen van beton die mooi geschilderd zijn. Overal zijn pinautomaten te vinden waar we gewoon kunnen pinnen. In tegenstelling tot drie jaar geleden, toen er nog geen pinautomaten waren en je een stapel Dollars mee moest nemen om die te wisselen. Er rijden veel brommers rond buiten de stad (in de stad niet toegestaan). De auto’s die je ziet rijden zijn relatief nieuw en hebben nog weinig krassen of deuken. En er zijn veel auto’s. Bijna iedereen die je ziet heeft een smartphone met een internetabonnement. In het hele land is een goede internetdekking, ook 4G begint op te komen. De lokale mensen kijken dan ook niet raar op om Westerse mensen met blonde haren en blauwe ogen te zien rondlopen, waarvan de vrouw korte broekjes draagt.

Het is erg leuk om de fabriek te zien en de verhalen over de bouw- en opstartperiode te horen. Maar wat de grootste indruk op ons maakt is het feit dat Johan de hele business hier heeft opgezet en nu aanstuurt. Hij heeft inmiddels 96 personeelsleden aan het werk. Omdat de vraag groter is dan de capaciteit die ze hebben heeft hij besloten in shifts te gaan werken, zodat ze 24 uur per dag gaan produceren. We zijn echt super trots op hem! Na ons bezoek aan de fabriek zit het programma er nog niet op. We gaan vanavond mee naar een zakendiner met een potentiële klant. De onderhandelingen zijn al een aantal ‘dinertjes’ gaande. De verwachting is dat de laatste voorwaarden vanavond afgetikt worden en de deal vervolgens geformaliseerd kan worden. Het zijn Chinezen en hebben als een groep boeren samen 500.000 kippen. Ze willen overstappen op het voer van De Heus, maar willen uiteraard meer korting dan ze tot nu toe is aangeboden. We zijn een beetje verbaasd dat we hier ten eerste mee naar toe worden genomen, maar ten tweede dat het Johan niet uitmaakt wat we aanhebben qua kleren. Zodra we bij het restaurant arriveren snappen we ook waarom. De sfeer is heel informeel en Johan blijkt de enige die een pantalon en overhemd aan heeft. De verkopers van De Heus zijn casual gekleed met spijkerbroek en t-shirt. Ook de Chinezen zien er uit alsof ze een dagje lekker op de bank hebben gehangen en zich opeens beseften nog even uit eten te moeten. Niemand kijkt er vreemd van op dat wij bij deze bespreking aanwezig zijn en ze schudden ons dus vrolijk de hand. Het is allemaal een stuk informeler dan wanneer je in Nederland een zakendiner hebt met een potentiële klant. Er wordt veel bier gedronken, nou bijna gezopen. Zodra Robert, één van de verkopers, verbaasd vraagt of Twan niets drinkt neemt hij toch maar een wijntje in plaats van water. De pullen bier vloeien rijkelijk en worden bijgeschonken zodra je hem pas voor de helft leeg hebt.

De Chinezen zijn met z’n vieren maar er is er duidelijk één die de leiding heeft. De onderhandeling is een heel spel dat wij nauwlettend in de gaten houden. Lekker om gewoon in het Nederlands alles te kunnen bespreken, want Johan zit de hele tactiek van de Chinezen aan ons uit te leggen en vertelt precies welk aanbod er ligt en wat ze zeggen. Twan en ik krijgen, na het zoveelste glas bier en wijn, op een gegeven moment het vermoeden dat we een deal gaan sluiten vanavond. Uiteindelijk wordt er voor de zoveelste keer geproost en wordt het glas bier in één teug leeggedronken. Het teken dat het etentje is afgelopen. Een dag later is de deal rond, de klant is binnen!

Twan heeft één fles Myanmar wijn opgedronken, Johan ziet eruit alsof hij zadderig begint te worden en ik heb de laatste paar rondjes bier maar even afgeslagen om te voorkomen dat ik hier straks kacheltje lam aan tafel hang. Maar de avond zit er nog niet op. Het team van De Heus heeft bepaald dat we nog even naar de KTV gaan: een karaoke bar. We belanden bij een hotel, waar twee meiden in veel te korte rokjes ons komen ‘assisteren’ met het systeem. Eén van de verkopers zit ze innig te omhelzen en vindt het allemaal prachtig. De karaoke gaat er serieus aan toe, het volume staat mega hard, de airco knalt met 16 graden lekker door. De polonaise vinden ze maar vreemd, maar ze doen allemaal gezellig mee. Na Twans tweede fles wijn en weer een aantal flessen bier besluiten we dat het genoeg geweest is voor vandaag. En Johans chauffeur Smile? Die wachtte ondertussen rustig in de auto en brengt drie bezopen Nederlanders terug naar huis…

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Het wordt tijd om ons programma voor de komende weken maar eens samen te stellen. We waren van plan om de ‘onontdekte’ stukjes van Myanmar te willen zien, en niet mee te reizen met de hele meute. Die meute blijkt er echter nog niet echt te zijn. Het aantal toeristen is nog relatief laag, ondanks dat het hoogseizoen net is aangebroken. Het is lastig om informatie te vinden over onbekendere plaatsen, met name wat er te doen is. We besluiten dus om toch maar de highlights mee te pakken zoals iedereen, wat uiteindelijk ook een prima keuze blijkt te zijn!

Eén van die highlights die we aan doen is Bagan. Myanmar kent een rijke geschiedenis van oude koningssteden die als hoofdstad hebben gediend. Bagan is één van die plaatsen en is gesticht in 849. De stad heeft de grootste verzameling boeddhistische tempels, ruïnes en stoepa’s ter wereld: maarliefst 4.400!

We springen op de e-bike (die een elektrische scooter blijkt te zijn in plaats van een elektrische fiets, zoals ik dacht) en gaan we eerst maar even wat lunchen. We gaan voor lekker lokaal en nemen een Myanmar food set meal. Geen idee wat het is. We verwachten dat het eigenlijke en soort Indiase thali is, maar het blijkt iets uitgebreider te zijn. Binnen no time wordt onze tafel vol gezet met schaaltjes: rauwe groenten, gebakken groenten, kip, kikkererwtensalade, palmboomsalade en een aantal ondefinieerbare prutjes. Helaas vinden we de palmboomsalades niet echt heel lekker, dus eten we met name de kikkererwten salade op en ons stuk kip met een bord rijst. Paar kopjes thee als toetje, en voor K2.000 (€ 1,40) hebben we weer goed gegeten.

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In het hotel had ik nog even uitgezocht welke tempels je niet mag missen. We beginnen met the number one temple. De tempel is van de buitenkant helemaal aangesmeerd omdat hij gerestaureerd wordt. Hij ziet er daardoor weliswaar netjes uit, maar wij houden toch meer van de oude geveltjes, die door de jaren heen verweerd zijn en daardoor viezig en zwart zijn geworden. Anderzijds is het uiteraard goed dat de tempels worden onderhouden. Binnen staan gigantische gouden Boeddha’s en ook hier zien we weer dat de lokale mensen (nagenoeg) allemaal een donatie geven. (De mensen in Myanmar geven, wereldwijd gezien, procentueel het grootste deel van hun inkomen weg in de vorm van donaties. Het minimum loon in het land ligt op K3.600 (€2,80) per dag, maar er wordt dusdanig veel gegeven dat de er bijvoorbeeld 500kg goud aan de umbrella (de top van de pagoda) van de Schwedagon Pagoda hangt.) We lopen een rondje binnen, een rondje buiten, maar besluiten toch maar snel weer op de brommer te springen. Het rondrijden vinden we eigenlijk leuker om overal naar binnen te gaan! De volgende tempel waar we komen blijkt gesloten, maar we zien ook een tempel waar je op kunt klimmen. Gaaf, ik ben wel benieuwd naar het uitzicht! In de boekjes zie je namelijk een mooi groen landschap met stenen torentjes er bovenuit. En inderdaad, het uitzicht is enorm. Zo ver je kunt kijken zie je bebossing, met rondom overal stenen torentjes van de tempels. Het heeft iets magisch, iets unieks, je weet niet waar je moet kijken.

We laten de lijst met belangrijkste tempels voor wat het is en gaan lekker rijden. De scooter heeft niet super veel vermogen, maar dat is eigenlijk helemaal niet erg. Heerlijk die rust zonder dat geknetter van de motor. Het zou overigens per 1 november hoogseizoen moeten zijn maar het is hier nog steeds ontzettend rustig. Er zijn meer lokale toeristen dan buitenlandse. En zodra je de hoofdweg verlaat en de kleine paadjes opgaat, waar de auto’s niet kunnen komen omdat het daar te smal voor is, blijkt dat we de tempels vaak voor onszelf hebben. Wat een prachtige omgeving, we snappen goed dat dit gebied wordt vergeleken met Angkor Wat. De tempels zijn dan misschien minder groot, maar er is veel en veel minder toerisme, waardoor je nog echt het idee hebt op ontdekkingstocht te zijn.

We maken een behoorlijk avontuurlijke rit. Doordat het afgelopen nacht toch aardig geregend heeft, is het op sommige stukken best modderig. Het regenseizoen lijkt langer aan te houden dan gebruikelijk dus met name ’s avonds en ’s nachts valt er nog wel eens een bui. Het pad wordt op een gegeven moment dusdanig dat we ik voorstel om om te keren. Voor Twan geen optie, dus gaat hij zo hard als de e-bike kan de blub in en met de modder in zijn nek, op zijn rug en tot aan zijn knieën bereikt hij de overkant. Hij vindt het helemaal geweldig en lacht zich kapot. Maar, we komen op deze manier wel op mooie plekjes. Op een gegeven moment vinden we een tempel waar een trappetje in zit zodat je op het dak kunt komen. We hebben een mooi uitzicht over de omgeving, en zitten een tijdje zonder een woord te zeggen van het uitzicht te genieten! En Twan, Twan laat de scooter nog even omvallen, zomaar.

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Wat we altijd leuk vinden om te observeren, is hoe de mensen in een land met hygiëne om gaan. Johan en Phuong Anh hadden ons al gewaarschuwd dat ze het hier in Myanmar niet zo nauw nemen met viezigheid. Zo heeft circa 90% van de mannen een lungi aan. Dit is een grote lap stof die de mannen om slaan als broek/rok. De meesten hebben er geen onderbroek onder aan. Lekker luchtig zou je zeggen, ware het niet dat ze de hele dag ongegeneerd in hun kruis zitten te grijpen, hem even vasthouden en uitgebreid staan te krabben. Je ziet de mannen vaak op hun hurken in de berm zitten, of naast een auto op straat. Het duurde even voordat we doorhadden dat ze zitten te plassen (ik hoop alleen plassen). Zonder handen! Die natte plekken die we zo nu en dan op de lungi zagen zijn dus ook meteen verklaard, want de stof wordt gebruikt om de boel even goed droog te vegen.

Nog een mooi voorbeeld zijn de kopjes thee. In Myanmar ga je niet naar een bar of café om af te spreken, je gaat naar een teashop. Hier drink je mierzoete melkthee (die wij na India en Nepal zelfs lekker zijn gaan vinden) met wat snacks. Hier, maar ook in de restaurantjes, staat ook altijd een thermoskan op tafel met een bakje water waar een paar schaaltjes in drijven. De thermoskan ziet eruit alsof ik hem tien jaar geleden al niet meer schoon zou krijgen. De schaaltjes blijken kopjes te zijn. De mensen zijn hier niet vies van elkaar, dus als je een kopje groene thee uit de vieze thermoskan wilt drinken pak je een schaaltje en schenk je hem vol. Ben je klaar, dan gaat het schaaltje weer de bak in zodat de volgende hem kan gebruiken. Dat wij de boel eerst flink oppoetsen met wc-papier begrijpen de locals totaal niet.

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Een andere mooie plaats die we aandoen is Nyaung Shwe, aan de rand van Inle Lake. Het meer is erg mooi en dicht begroeid: overal op het water groeien tomaten in de drijvende tuinen en er groeien ontzettend veel lotusbloemen. Er zijn dorpen en tuinen op het water, waardoor het open water relatief een klein oppervlakte heeft. Je ziet wel meteen dat het hier echt een toeristische bedoeling is, bijna een ‘aapjes kijken’ gevoel krijgen we erbij. Met name dicht bij het dorp waar alle toeristen hun boottochtje beginnen. De zogenaamde vissers zitten de hele tijd niets te doen, totdat er een toeristenbootje aan komt. Dan staan ze op, balanceren zichzelf op één been en houden met de andere de mand in de lucht. Zodra je voorbij bent leggen ze de mand neer en kletsen weer verder met de andere toneelspelers. De echte vissers worden vervolgens gestoord omdat wij met een noodtreinvaart en een knetterende motor langsvaren.

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En dan is het 10 november en staan we ongeduldig te wachten op Yangon International Airport. Het vliegtuig landt iets later dan gepland, maar dan zijn ze er eindelijk! Jan en Sjanie komen met een grote grijns door de glazen deuren, wat fijn om ze weer te zien. Omhelzen, kussen, nog een keer omhelzen. We hebben een leuk programma gemaakt voor de komende vier dagen dat we samen zijn. Niet te druk, zodat we ook gezellig bij kunnen kletsen.

We laten ze Yangon zien op de manier waarop wij reizen: lekker een kopje zoete melkthee drinken met een snack, eten bij de lokale restaurantjes, boos worden op de ober als hij je bijna twee keer zo veel wilt laten betalen bij het afrekenen omdat het goedkoop is hier en de meeste mensen het daardoor niet doorhebben dat hij een hoger bedrag opgeeft, een gefrituurd broodje kopen in de Circle Train in Yangon (wat Jan en Sjanie toch maar niet nemen). Het is super fijn om ze weer te zien, vertrouwd en makkelijk! Super leuk om onze verhalen aan hen in het echt te kunnen vertellen, en om te horen hoe het met iedereen in Nederland gaat. Bijzonder om zo met z’n zessen in Myanmar te zijn! Na een paar gezellige dagen zit het er helaas alweer op: wij vertrekken naar Australië, zij trekken het land in en Johan en Phuong Anh moeten gewoon weer aan het werk.

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Het voelt gek om naar Australië te gaan. Het lijkt een echte stap, naar een heel ander leven. Het zal ook een ander leven worden: we zijn van plan om drie maanden aan het werk te gaan. We hebben nog geen baan, maar we horen van veel backpackers dat je makkelijk een baantje vindt door gewoon ergens binnen te lopen. Vaak mag je de volgende dag al beginnen, dus solliciteren op afstand werd ons afgeraden. We zijn erg benieuwd waar we terecht gaan komen, hoe het gaat bevallen om niet meer zo vogelvrij te zijn. Maar we hebben er zin in, laat dit nieuwe avontuur maar komen!

Benieuwd naar de overige foto’s? Klik hier

292 reacties

  1. Leuk verhaal met mooie plaatsjes en herinneringen! En nu aan ’t werk jullie! Kus, Johan

    1. Nog even hangen op KL Airport, 8uur vliegen en dan kunnen we!

  2. Lieve Ingeborg en Twan,

    De foto’s lijken met elk nieuw verhaal nog weer mooier te worden. Ook hier weer prachtige plaatjes bij het schitterende verhaal. Goede reis naar Australië en werk ze (zal wel even tegenvallen haha).

    Groetjes en kusjes,
    Dorien en Ton

  3. Werkze! (dat klinkt raar haha)

  4. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan weer een fantastisch verhaal en evenzo mooie foto’s. Gelukkig kunnen jullie nog gekke bekken trekken 🙂 . Fijn dat jullie met z’n zessen daar een fijn weekend hebben gehad. In je verhaal over de hygiëne blijkt dat we ons in de westerse wereld er veel te druk om maken en men daar ook normaal kan leven. Heel veel succes om een baan te vinden om de pot te spekken voor de voortgang en WERK ZE 🙂 :). De auto voor Afrika ziet er super uit en zal veel rij plezier opleveren. Lieve groet Tonny en Eef.

  5. Gerry en Wim Jansen zegt: Beantwoorden

    Hallo Ingeborg en Twan.
    We lezen jullie reisblog met veel interesse en zien uit naar het boek.
    Veel succes bij het vinden van een leuke baan in Australië. We schatten in dat het wel zal lukken.
    Hartelijke groeten,
    Gerry en Wim Jansen.

    1. Hi Gerry en Wim,
      Wat leuk dat jullie een berichtje sturen! Jan en Sjanie vertelde al dat jullie nog steeds mee lezen, hartstikke goed!
      Groetjes vanuit Melbourne

  6. Hoihoi, Twan en ingeborg, wat een prachtige verhalen weer. En heel leuk om de foto’s te zien met jullie allen! Zag ik t nu goed? was Twan jarig? zo ja gefeliciteerd!
    Heel veel plezier en succes met jullie carrière in Australië!
    Goeie reis en groetjes uit het Loiredal 😉
    Ulbe en Dorien

    1. Nee goed gekeken🙈Johan blaast de kaarsjes uit, proficiat!

      1. Nee, Twan blaast de kaarsjes uit! 7 november was hij jarig! 🙂

  7. Wij vonden het ook geweldig om jullie weer te zien en te voelen (ha ha)
    Veel plezier in Australië en werk ze😜
    Groetjes uit mandelay

  8. Gezellig jullie zo weer te zien!! Succes in Australie!!

  9. De Heus !!! wat gaaf, daar betrek ik o.a. ook mijn voer van. Echter betaal ik me blauw en groen aan rekeningen van die gasten. Dus minimaal één steen, bout of moer in die fabriek is door mij betaald. Lees je even mee Johan 😉

    Erg leuk om elke keer weer jullie verhalen te lezen. Top. Ik ben officieel jaloers 🙂

    Groetjes Jos

  10. Hi kids,

    genoten weer van jullie verhaal en de fraaie foto’s! Moet toch heerlijk zijn om daar zo met elkaar de laatste dagen van je Myanmar-verblijf te kunnen besteden. Geweldig, hadden er dolgraag bij geweest, maar ja, het is niet anders. Voor ons is het ook een beetje een feest van herkenning: vele foto’s zijn op dezelfde plek gemaakt, leuk om te zien. Maar zien ook dingen waar wij niet waren: de gouden rots, de “versleten” buda, de mannetjes op een rij. Nog zat te zien voor een volgende trip naar dit fraaie land!
    En ja, die fabriek en alles er omheen in zo korte tijd…. Fantastisch!! Met recht reden om supertrots te zijn!
    En dan nu Australië, back to work again. Zal wel ff wennen zijn. Maar goed, de accu is inmiddels opgeladen dus de eerste werkgever kan in zijn handjes knijpen met zulke kanjers!! Have fun and enjoy!! Vette knuffel van Roos & pa.

  11. Yes! Ik ben weer bij! Heerlijke verhalen voor de vrijdagmiddag op kantoor hehe 😉 Wat schrijf je toch super leuk Ping, echt geweldig om te lezen! Doordat je het allemaal zo levendig vertelt word ik alleen wel nóg meer jaloers, haha! Zeeeker nu ik weet waar jullie momenteel zitten en wat jullie aan het doen zijn!! 😀 Maar het is jullie echt van harte gegund.
    Ondanks dat het totaal anders is dan wat jullie de afgelopen maanden hebben meegemaakt, is Australië op z’n eigen manier ook weer fascinerend, geweldig en ook niet te vergelijken met Nederland. Geniet van deze andere ‘lifestyle’ en ik kijk uit naar jullie volgende verslag!

    Xx Prl.

    P.s.: ‘En Twan, Twan laat de scooter nog even omvallen, zomaar.’ *foto* Hahahahaha!

    1. Lieve Prl,
      Super leuk berichtje weer 🙂
      We zullen aan je denken hier in Australië. We kunnen nog wel iemand gebruiken in mijn winkel, dus als je snel een ticket boekt kan ik je nog inwerken voor de kerst 😉
      Dikke kus!

  12. Hey Ingeborg en Twam,

    Eindelijk dat ik een keertje kijk op jullie site.
    Wat een gave verhalen en wat gaaf wat jullie beleven. Super dat jullie dit doen!!!

    Lekker genieten van alles en van elkaar.

    Veel plezier en dikke kus van Diana

    1. Hey Diana,
      Wat leuk dat je een berichtje stuurt! En leuk dat je nog een keer mee leest.
      Alleen foto’s kijken gaat misschien sneller dan alles teruglezen 😉
      Hoe is het in Hoogkarspel?
      Dikke kus van ons

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