Weer onderweg: kamperen, wijn en mooie uitzichten

Bij elk land dat we bezoeken denk ik weer: hier moeten jullie echt naar toe! Afgelopen twee weken hebben we over het Zuidereiland van Nieuw-Zeeland gereisd. Wat een natuur in een enorm ‘leeg’ land: Nieuw-Zeeland is ongeveer 7 keer zo groot als Nederland en er wonen slechts 4,5 miljoen mensen!

Omdat de hotels hier echt belachelijk duur zijn, hadden we voor onze eerste nacht in Christchurch (Zuidereiland) een cabin geboekt op een camping: letterlijk een houten hok waar een tweepersoonsbed in stond en waar we gebruik maakten van het toiletgebouw van de camping. We hadden in die drie maanden Melbourne genoeg tijd om onze reis voor te bereiden, hebben we natuurlijk niet gedaan, dus wilden we graag een nachtje bij boeken zodat we tijd hadden om ons plan te maken. Blijkt alles volgeboekt te zijn, in heel Christchurch! Alle budget accommodaties zaten al vol. Net als bij Mount Cook en Queenstown, onze eerste twee bestemmingen. Op de camping waren wel voldoende kampeerplekken beschikbaar. Jep, halsoverkop dus zorgen dat we aan een kampeeruitrusting komen. Doordat Christchurch voor veel mensen een eindbestemming was, konden we op de camping wat tweedehandsspullen kopen: een tentje (dusdanig smal dat als we op onze rug liggen, schouder aan schouder, nog steeds allebei aan de andere kant het doek raken), twee zelfopblaasbare matjes, een vieze deken, twee slaapzakken, twee stoelen en een koelbox. Voor maar liefst €70! Enige nadeel was dat Twans matje lek bleek te zijn en hij dus letterlijk op de grond heeft geslapen. Na twee nachten bleek het andere matje dat we hadden gekregen ook lek, en degene die wel goed was heeft het na twee weken ook begeven. Top voor elkaar dus!

Onze eerste bestemming is Mt. Cook, de ena grootste gletsjer van Nieuw-Zeeland. Onderweg komen we langs prachtige meren. Door het zilte water is de kleur dusdanig blauw, dat je het gevoel hebt dat je in Photoshop staat waar iemand met het schuifje van de blauw-tint heeft zitten spelen. Het is gewoon bijna nep! De eerste camping die we tegenkomen als we bijna bij Mt. Cook zijn, wat ook de enige fatsoenlijke bleek te zijn, ligt nog 40km van het beginpunt van alle wandelroutes. We denken dat het logisch is dat er ook een camping dichterbij moet zitten, dus rijden maar door naar de voet van de berg. Er blijkt een camping te zijn: een soort parkeerterrein met wat grasveldjes en drie wc’s. Geen keuken, geen douches. Maar wel met zicht op de gletsjer, en de ondergaande zon die nog mooi op de berg schijnt. Een kookstelletje hadden we overigens niet gekocht, omdat je hier op de ‘standaard’ campings overal grote keukens hebt waar je kunt koken. Onze Nederlandse buren met luxe camperbus reageerden niet echt toen ik zei dat we nog niet wisten hoe we onze maaltijd moesten bereiden zonder gas (ik hoopte dat ze zouden aanbieden dat we wel even bij hen mochten koken), dus gingen we op zoek naar een ander slachtoffer. Met een glas wijn in de hand lijkt alles een stuk gezelliger, dus na een praatje met een ander jong stel bleken we al snel een pitje gescoord te hebben.

De wandeling die de meeste toeristen bij Mt. Cook doen is de Hooker Valley Track, een relatief vlak pad waar ook bussen met Chinezen worden gedropt voor een dagje wandelen. Wij besluiten dus naar de Mueller Hut te lopen: een wandeling van slechts vijf kilometer maar met een stijging van 1000m. Het begint met ongeveer 2000 traptreden, dan gaat het over in een zandpad en vervolgens klim je over een keien-/rotsenhelling steil omhoog. Deels lopen we in een wolk, waardoor het uitzicht iets minder groots is, maar alsnog is het super mooi. Het laatste stukje naar de hut lopen we zelfs over eeuwige sneeuw! Boven belonen we onszelf met een paar boterhammen met pindakaas (wat onze standaard lunchmaaltijd zal worden voor elke wandeling die we maken). En zoals Caro appte: “Jahoor, 360 dagen per jaar is het rotweer en mist, en jullie zien Mt. Cook bij mooi weer!” Maar Caro: gelukkig hebben we wel ongeveer een week spierpijn gehad van onze wandeling. Wat er denk ik ook mee te maken had is dat we de dag erna in Queenstown 45km hebben gemountainbiked. Mijn bovenbenen deden dusdanig veel pijn dat ik niet eens op mijn zij op mijn lekke matje kon liggen 🙂

   

Het van A naar B rijden is hier geen straf. De uitzichten veranderen continu, waardoor een dagje rijden een activiteit op zich is geworden. Je mag hier maximaal 100km/h, een lekker ontspannen snelheid. De wegen zien er overigens uit als een Nederlandse 80-weg: één baan heen, één baan terug, afgescheiden door een stippellijn. En ze slingeren alle kanten op, waardoor je continu lekker aan het sturen bent (reden we hier maar op de motor!). Doordat er zo weinig mensen wonen rijd je grote delen van de dag zonder auto’s voor of achter je. De nep-blauwe meren wisselen zich af met bergpassen, soms lijkt het alsof we in een woestijnachtige omgeving zijn, om een uur later door een soort tropisch regenwoud te rijden. Waarschijnlijk is het hier ook zo mooi omdat er zo weinig mensen wonen: je ziet niet overal waar je kijkt bebouwing en de meren zijn omringd met bergen in plaats van dorpjes zoals bijvoorbeeld aan het Gardameer. Op de achtergrond zie je vaak besneeuwde bergtoppen. Van het ene lookout point rijden we naar het andere, stoppen we  om even te kijken of te lunchen, en cruisen we weer verder. En daar komen de toeristen in Nieuw-Zeeland ook voor: natuur en thrill activiteiten. Met het zonnetje erbij kun je je weinig anders wensen.

Na met 640pk door een gorge te hebben geblazen op een jetboat (levensgevaarlijk?), met een soort kart van een skipiste af te zijn gedenderd en na wijn geproefd te hebben bij Rippon Wine Estate in Wanaka (waar ze flessen van €50 euro verkochten die wij dus niet kochten) waar we een prachtige camping aan een Photoshop blauw meer hebben gevonden, rijden we door naar Franz Josef. Nieuw-Zeeland heeft meer dan 3.000 gletsjers, waarvan er zo’n 2.970 op het Zuidereiland liggen. De Fox gletsjer, op zo’n 20km rijden van de Franz Josef gletsjer, is de derde hoogste gletsjer van het land. Ondanks dat het ongeveer vier ribben uit onze beide lichamen kostte, hebben we toch een heli-hike gemaakt op de Fox! Nadat de tocht op de initiële dag geannuleerd werd door slecht weer, was het de dag erna gelukkig helder genoeg om naar boven te kunnen.

              

Na een ritje van zo’n tien minuten met de helikopter (erg gaaf!) landen we op de gletsjer. Je hebt geen flauw benul als je er staat, maar de gletsjer is op dit moment nog zo’n 200 meter dik (tegenover zo’n 300 meter 20 jaar geleden) en 13km lang. De ijzers worden onder gebonden en we zijn er klaar voor: een wandeling van ruim 2 uur over het ijs. In het begin is het wat onwennig en lijkt elke plas een gevaar, alsof je daar door het ijs zult zakken als je er in gaat staan. Onze gids Jude weet mooie verhalen te vertellen en vindt tunnels en kloven die zijn ontstaan waar we doorheen kunnen kruipen. De tunnels en kloven zijn knalblauw van kleur door de compactheid van het ijs: aan de oppervlakte van de gletsjer is het ijs gebroken en poreus, maar iets dieper is het één grote bonk. Doordat de gletsjers bovenaan zo’n 3-4 meter per dag bewegen en onderaan maar 1-2 meter per dag, ontstaan er ijstunnels. Omdat de gletsjer ook in de breedte beweegt ontstaan er spleten. Dit maakt het lopen over de gletsjers ook zo gevaarlijk: elke dag is het anders. Het is een bijzondere wereld om te staan, een wereld die er vermoedelijk over 50 jaar niet meer zal zijn…

Vanaf ‘Glacier Country’ rijden we door naar het noorden, naar het Abel Tasman National Park. Omdat lopen ook altijd maar lopen is, besluiten we een tweedaagse tocht te gaan maken waarbij we de eerste dag kajakken, overnachten in het park en vervolgens de tweede dag gaan hiken, om met de watertaxi weer teruggebracht te worden. Onze tent, matjes, slaapzakken, kleren en voedsel voor 1,5 dag gaan mee in de kajak. Het duurt even (voor ons gevoel absurd lang) voordat de briefing is geweest, maar dan mogen we eindelijk gaan peddelen. De zon knettert behoorlijk en de uitzichten zijn weer fenomenaal: bergen die oprijzen uit de zee, met schone en witte stranden in kleine baaitjes. Helaas is dit niet de omgeving waar dolfijnen zitten, dus daar hoeven we niet echt op te letten. Het blauwe water is fris, maar nodigt genoeg uit om op onze overnachtingsplek snel een duik in te nemen. Én, uiteraard zien we ’s nachts ook hier, zoals eigenlijk op bijna elke camping in Nieuw-Zeeland, de Melkweg boven ons stralen!

              

Onze laatste bestemming op het Zuidereiland is de regio Marlborough: de wijnregio van het land. We huren een tandem om zo van cellar door naar cellar door te fietsen, die veelal op nog geen vijf minuten van elkaar zitten. Klein als de wereld is, ontmoeten we op onze camping een stel uit Doetinchem (waarvan Sjors ook 31 is en óók op het Ludger heeft gezeten, desondanks kennen Twan en hij elkaar niet) en besluiten met hen samen rond te fietsen. Veel lol, veel wijn, veel eten, dus een mooi dagje.

Als je dan toch in Marlborough bent, moet je eigenlijk ook naar de Marlborough Sounds. Sounds zijn een soort fjord-gebieden in Nieuw-Zeeland waar de bergen uit de zee steken en tot wel honderd kilometer landinwaarts komen. De Queen Charlottes Sounds is een deel dat Thomas Cook heeft ontdekt en heeft opgedragen aan de toenmalige koningin van Engeland. De route die je kunt lopen (en mountainbiken) is 71km lang, wij lopen daar zo’n 46km van in twee dagen. Met een stapel pannenkoeken als lunch voor dag 1, twee bakken pastasalade als avondeten, yoghurt met muesli als ontbijt, brood met pindakaas als lunch voor dag 2 en 6 stuks fruit zijn we klaar om te gaan. De wandeling is nóg mooier dan in Abel Tasman: de uitzichten zijn grootser/weidser en de sounds strekken zich voor je uit. Ook is/lijkt het een stukje rustiger op het pad, omdat de meeste mensen de route in dezelfde richting lopen. Het enige wat je hoort is het getjilp van vogels, af en toe een boot als we in een baaitje met hotelletjes komen en de boeren die Twan continu laat en de pannenkoeken daar de schuld van geeft.

      

Ons bunt zuunig, dus hebben we bedacht de huurauto op het eiland achter te laten, te voet de Interislander op te gaan en op het Noordereiland een volgende huurauto op te halen. Scheelt inderdaad geld, alleen hadden we niet voorzien dat we ook een hele kampeeruitrusting mee zouden moeten slepen. Creatief inpakken dus, zorgen dat de meeste boodschappen op zijn, en als echte Aziaten stappen we met loodzware bagage de boot op.

Op naar het Noordereiland!

Klik hier weer door naar de rest van de foto’s

990 reacties

  1. Heel gaaf! Hoe lang blijven jullie nog in NZ? Kus!

    1. We hebben jammer genoeg nog maar 9 dagen… 20 maart vliegen we (alweer) terug naar Australië.

  2. Klaas en Margreet zegt: Beantwoorden

    Hoi Ingeborg en Twan,wat een spannende dingen allemaal, wel heel mooi en ook steeds weer leuk om te lezen. Bij Paul en Rosalie geweest op Paul z’n 60e verjaardag. Gezellige dag gehad enook Johan gesproken. Lekker zitten kletsen met deze en gene.
    Dikke kus voor jullie beide. Klaas en Margreet.

  3. Super om te lezen wat jullie allemaal doen. Wauw wat een mooie verhalen en wat een mooie foto’s. Geniet daar en doe voorzichtig. Groetjes uit Nederland

  4. Sweet as! Gave foto’s, leuk verhaal, awesome eiland! Benieuwd wat jullie van het Noorder eiland vinden. Vergeet de Tongariro crossing niet!

    1. Staat uiteraard op de lijst!

  5. Wat een mooie verhalen van jullie belevenissen weer! En dat je dan zover van huis iemand uit Doetinchem tegenkomt…blijft bijzonder zulke ontmoetingen!
    Veel plezier en leuk dat we weer mogen genieten op afstand😄👍🏻
    Groetjes

  6. Lieve Twan en Ingeborg,

    Wat een geweldig mooie foto’s weer. Hopelijk wel wat comfortabeler slapen en niet teveel lekke matrasjes op het noorder eiland. Gisteren het boek gekocht van die Miriam (uit de Achterhoek) die jaren door de bush-bush van NZ heeft gezworven.

    Groeten en kus uit Zeddam van
    Dorien en Ton

    1. Oh leuk, hoorden andere Nederlanders ook al over dat boek. Zijn benieuwd!

  7. Zo te lezen en te zien, vermaken jullie je nog uitstekend. Het wauw-effect is weer groot, echt prachtig. Blijf lekker genieten, want dit is toch het mooiste dat er is !!!

  8. Wat zijn jullie weer lekker aan het genieten en wat een prachtige foto s weer.
    Was het niet koud Ingeborg met je korte mouwen door de ijsspleet? Brrrrrrrr

    Groetjes J en S

    1. Het was net als met wintersport: zonnetje maakt het meteen heet, heerlijk dus.

  9. Hoi Ingeborg en Twan weer fantastisch verhaal en evenzo mooie foto’s in het land van De Lord of The Rings met robuuste en mooie uitzichten. Conditie is wel achteruit gegaan als je na 45 km mountainbiken al spierpijn hebt 🙂 snap het wel zijn natuurlijk geen Montferland heuvels. Wel stoer om met blote armen door de ijs spelonk te kruipen en over de gletsjer te lopen. Lieve groet Tonny en Eef

    1. Ik denk dat de spierpijn een combi was van 1000 hoogtemeters klimmen over een afstand van 5km, plus de dag erna 45km mountainbiken! 🙂 AU!

  10. hoi ingeborg en twan,
    Wat een prachtige belevenissen weer.Vooral die gletsjer,echt wauw! heb zelf een keer in Noorwegen een beklommen maar deze met tunnels vind ik wel heel bijzonder.Ben wel verbaasd over jullie niet voorbereiding en zit hier dan ook heerlijk te lachen achter het scherm.Geniet weer lekker van al het moois en hartelijke groet van roelof en joke.

    1. In Nederland hebben we de boel vaak wel op de rit inderdaad, maar zodra we op reis gaan laten we dat een beetje/nogal los! 🙂

  11. Gerrie en Carla zegt: Beantwoorden

    Hoi Twan Ingeborg Ton en Dorien
    Ik zou graag willen weten of er al recente foto’s van jullie vieren op de site staan
    Ik kom ze nog niet tegen
    Heel veel plezier met zijn allen en een veilige reis
    Groetjes Carla en Gerrie

    1. Hi Gerrie en Carla,
      Ik loop een beetje achter met het plaatsen van blogs, over een paar dagen zal ik de foto’s van het bezoek van Ton en Dorien aan ons uploaden! 🙂
      Groetjes Ingeborg

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