Malawi, een bijzonder bezoek

We lijken steeds beter te worden in de grensovergangen. De grens van Zambia naar Malawi gaat dusdanig makkelijk, dat we binnen een uur alles geregeld hebben: paspoort en ‘carnet de passage’ zijn Zambia uit gestempeld en binnen mum van tijd worden we Malawi in gestempeld. Hoewel, dit gaat niet van harte: er zitten vier mensen achter het raam te werken, allemaal kijken ze niet op of om. Na zo’n vijf minuten staat er iemand moedeloos op en komt naar het raam. Onze tactiek is inmiddels: zet je vrolijkste gezicht op, ookal kun je degene tegenover je wel schieten, en zorg ervoor dat je oprecht vrolijk klinkt. Op die manier zeggen we goeiendag, waardoor er een klein glimlachje vanaf komt en binnen twee minuten de stempels op orde zijn.

Zodra we het land inrijden ziet het er niet heel anders uit dan in Zambia. Het enige verschil is dat het veel en veel drukker op straat is. Malawi heeft een hoge bevolkingsdichtheid en dat is duidelijk te zien. Overal lopen en fietsen mensen. We hebben geen idee hoe hard je hier mag rijden, maar in de dorpjes is het 50km/h. Veel harder wil je ook niet met al die lopende en fietsende mensen op de weg. Zodra ik weer een dorpje uit rij, geef ik een dot gas. Tenminste, ik denk dat ik een dorpje uit rij. Ze zijn hier niet heel consequent met de ‘Einde 50’ borden, maar ook niet met de ‘Einde bebouwde kom’ borden. En juist op dat moment staat er een groepje agenten de snelheid te controleren, met een ware lasergun, alsof we in Nederland zijn! We worden staande gehouden en het zweet breekt me uit: ik reed veel te hard! “Goed bezig schat,” zit Twan naast me te grinniken. Je mocht dus 50, ik ben gepakt met 79km/h! Shit!!! Gelukkig valt de schade mee, de boete bedraagt maarliefst MK 5.000 (€ 6,-)! Snel betalen dus, niet zeuren, en doorrijden.

Malawi is een niet toeristisch maar prachtig land: het is ontzettend groen en vruchtbaar door de bergen en het gigantische Lake Malawi dat met een lengte van 580km en een diepte van 500m voor ons meer als een zee aandoet. Overal zijn marktjes, waar we uit nieuwsgierigheid worden aangekeken maar ook weer niet als ‘vreemde blanke’ worden gezien. Als lunch eten we op de markt zo nu en dan de lokale specialiteit: chips. Stel je een grote stalen plaat voor waar een deuk in is geslagen. Onder die deuk, die gevuld is met olie, wordt met hout een vuurtje gestookt zodat de olie wordt verwarmd. Zodra de olie warm is worden de gesneden aardappels erin gegooid. Héél langzaam, te langzaam, worden de aardappels gaar. En tadaaa: ontzettend lichte, volgezogen en van het vet druipende friet! Een schep kool en tomaat erop, nog een schepje olie uit de pan om het af te maken en een fles ketchup on the side. En dat voor zo’n veertig tot vijftig cent per portie.

               

We vervolgens ons rondje over de markt en kopen bij verschillende winkeltjes groente en fruit om iedereen een beetje te helpen. We kopen 4 fritters (de niet-luchtige variant van een oliebol) en geven er één aan een zwerver die op het marktje zit. Hij mist zijn rechter onderbeen en zit in een veel te groot, vies en versleten pak tegen een muur geleund. Hij eet aardappelschillen, de resten van iemand anders’ ontbijt. Vreselijk om te zien. Hij is super blij met z’n fritter en brengt z’n handen naar elkaar als teken van dankbaarheid.

We lopen verder op zoek naar kip. Op de markt kun je uiteraard ook vlees kopen, maar dat is met name geit. Varkens- en rundvlees is moeilijk te vinden. Kip is er al helemaal niet, alleen ingevroren in de supermarktjes. Maar volgens de locals kun je die beter niet kopen, dit zijn namelijk de hybrid chickens: plofkippen. Een lekker dik vet kippetje, vetgemest in een fabriek. Volgens de mensen kun je beter een local chicken op de markt kopen, die een paar jaar heeft rondgescharreld in het dorp. Ze zijn er van overtuigd dat dit gezonder is dan een plofkip waar aanzienlijk meer vlees aan zit. Goh, bekend dilemma! In Nederland is er alleen een prijsverschil, hier betekent de keuze voor ‘bio’ dat je een levende kip moet komen! Uiteindelijk vinden we de mannen die kippen verkopen. De één na de ander drukt de kip, die zielig op z’n kop hangt te bungelen en bij z’n poten wordt vastgehouden, in Twans gezicht om te laten zien wat een mooie dikke kip hij heeft. Een lokale man helpt ons met het selecteren: hij weegt de ene na de andere kip in z’n hand en adviseert welke we moeten kopen. Na het afrekenen neemt de man de kip bij z’n poten en gaan we op zoek naar iemand die het arme beest voor ons kan slachten. Het is nog even zoeken, want mensen kopen een kip en slachten die zelf thuis, ze gaan er niet mee op zoek naar iemand die dat voor ze kan doen. We komen uit bij het chips-centre, waar je vette friet en gefrituurde kip kunt kopen. Ondanks dat ze het heel vreemd vinden dat wij de kip niet gewoon zelf slachten, vinden we bij een frietkraam iemand die het wel voor ons wil doen. We lopen naar een berg veren, de plek waar de frietenmakers hun kippetjes slachten. We dwingen onszelf om te kijken, hoewel ik het vreselijk vind. Binnen één minuut is het klusje geklaard en stopt de kip met stuiptrekken. Hij wordt een paar minuten in kokend water gedompeld, geplukt en in stukken gesneden. Alleen de kop, de klauwen en de ingewanden laten we achter, die een ander vermoedelijk ’s avonds lekker heeft zitten eten. Waarom we niet gewoon een plofkip hebben gekocht? We vinden dat we in NL te ver weg staan van de voedselketen. Te ver om, met name voor onze generatie en jonger, nog écht te weten waar ons eten vandaan komt. Te ver om nog enig gevoel te hebben met wat je eet. Mijn eerste reactie was: we moeten haar een naam geven, ze mag niet anoniem sterven. Daarom heb ik haar Gerda genoemd. Mijn tweede reactie toen Gerda eenmaal in stukken was verdeeld en we haar meenamen om in de diepvries te leggen: ik wil haar niet opeten, ik wil nooit meer vlees eten! Hypocriet, ik weet het. Maar één ding kan ik je wel verzekeren: het voelt totaal anders om vlees te eten waarvan je het dier nog hebt gezien, opdracht hebt gegeven om het te slachten, het voor je ogen hebt zien sterven en het vervolgens in de pan te leggen. Een paar uur later zat ik toch rijst met kip te eten, maar Gerda zal ik nooit vergeten…

               

In het zuiden van Malawi nemen we de tijd om Mt. Mulanje te trotseren, ook wel Island in the Sky genoemd. Het zuiden is heuvelachtig, maar uit het niets rijst een bergmassief van ruim 20 bij 25km op. Het hoogste punt ligt op 3.001m, nog eens duizend meter hoger dan het plateau. We laten ons een gids adviseren en gaan voor drie dagen de berg op. Er staan houten hutten waar we kunnen overnachten en waar we in de open haard eten kunnen koken. De uitzichten zijn waanzinnig, de klim het plateau op is vreselijk zwaar, in de hutten ontmoeten we leuke mensen en zitten ’s avonds bij de open haard met z’n allen Zuid-Afrikaans/Nederlandse liedjes te zingen.

               

Overdag tijdens het lopen leren we onze gids Oliver beter kennen. We hebben gelezen dat Malawi op nummer drie staat van de ranglijst ‘Armste landen ter wereld.’ Om een beeld te schetsen: een arbeider op de theeplantages verdient MK 3.000 (€ 4,20) per week voor 40 uur werk. Niet voor te stellen voor ons. Dit heeft tot gevolg dat men niet naar een arts kan bij ziekte, want ten eerste moet je naar het dorp met een ziekenhuis kunnen reizen. Transport voor een stuk van 20km kost ongeveer 80 cent. Als het een overheidsziekenhuis is, krijg je een gratis consult. Is het geen overheidsziekenhuis, dan moeten ze ongeveer een euro betalen voor een consult, maar daarna zijn de medicijnen gratis. Maar dit geld is er domweg niet. En dat zorgt ervoor dat mensen aan voor ons simpele dingen overlijden (een aantal jaar geleden overleed 35% van de kinderen voor hun 5e levensjaar. Die massale kindersterfte zorgde ervoor dat ze pas daarna werden meegeteld als lid van de bevolking). Daarnaast hebben mensen amper geld hebben voor eten, laat staan om hun kinderen naar school te doen.

Onderweg vertelt Oliver aan Twan (ik ga namelijk helemaal kapot op de klim met een stijging van 1.200m die we in 4 uur tijd afleggen en loop dus ergens achteraan buiten gehoorsafstand te hijgen) over zijn familie en zijn leven. Hij komt uit een gezin met 6 kinderen. Een gemiddeld gezin in Malawi heeft 6 kinderen, de grote steden meegeteld. Negen jaar geleden zijn zijn vader en de eerste van zijn drie zusjes omgekomen bij een verkeersongeluk. Zijn vader was buschauffeur op de minibusjes die hier rondrijden. Zijn tweede en derde zusjes zijn overleden aan TBC en malaria. In 2014 is zijn moeder overleden als gevolg van ‘witchcraft’, geloven ze: de slechte geesten hebben bezit genomen van haar lichaam, haar voedsel kwam onverteerd haar lichaam weer uit en een aantal dagen later stierf ze. Ze is naar het ziekenhuis geweest maar ze konden niets vinden, vandaar de geesten. Oliver is nu 24 en zorgt al drie jaar voor zijn broertjes van 14 en 9 jaar en heeft hierdoor zijn middelbare school niet af kunnen maken (slechts 15% maakt het wel af). Hij heeft geen geld om zijn oudste broertje van 14 naar school te sturen. Hij werkte namelijk eerst als fietstaxi, waarmee hij zo’n €2,40 per dag verdiende. Omdat zijn broertje ziek werd moest hij zijn fiets verkopen zodat hij dat geld kon gebruiken om naar een arts te gaan. Sindsdien heeft hij nooit meer genoeg geld gehad om een andere fiets te kopen en zo weer inkomsten te genereren. De jongste kan volgend jaar naar de basisschool (van je 10e tot 14e) want dat is gratis (en veel kinderen komen helaas van school zonder te kunnen lezen en schrijven). Wij zijn de eerste klanten sinds ruim twee weken tijd, wat betekent dat hij eigenlijk bankroet was op het moment dat wij hem ontmoetten. Hij vertelt dan ook blij dat hij straks als hij terugkomt van de berg eerst twee zakken maïs gaat kopen. Dit laten ze vervolgens malen zodat een poeder ontstaat waar ze nsima van maken. Je eet nsima in maaltijden waar wij rijst zouden eten, maar deze maïspap is aanzienlijk goedkoper: een zak van 50kg kost omgerekend €6,50 en hier kan hij 3 maanden met zijn broers van eten. Op dit moment is de prijs van maïs laag dus hij wil zeker zijn van eten het komende half jaar. Daarna gaan ze naar de kledingmarkt om nieuwe tweedehands kleren te kopen (die wij in de Zak van Max doen).

               

Omdat we behoorlijk aangeslagen zijn van Olivers verhaal, vertellen we hem dat we hem geen fooi geven voor zijn werk, maar dat we morgen met hem willen gaan lunchen. Nadat we afscheid van elkaar hebben genomen en wij teruggaan naar onze camping om een warme douche te nemen, zitten we ’s avonds stilletjes voor ons uit te staren. Wij hebben in ons leven nog nooit in de situatie gezeten dat we bankroet zijn, dat je ergens nog een euro in een broekzak hebt zitten en dat alles is wat je hebt. Dat je op je 21e de verantwoordelijkheid kreeg voor je broertjes van 11 en 6 jaar oud. Dat je elk regenseizoen meerdere keren je dak moet repareren omdat het papier en het riet kapot is gewaaid en gespoeld. Dat je elke dag weer hoopt op klanten zodat je geld verdient. Dat er geen geld is om zelf je school af te kunnen maken, laat staan dat je de school van je broertje kunt betalen. We besluiten dan ook om hem te helpen.

Zoals afgesproken treffen we hem de volgende dag in een lokaal restaurantje voor de lunch (de witte ballen op ons bord is nsima). We bestellen rijst met (local) kip en krijgen er een klein groenteprutje bij. Wij eten op wat we op kunnen, Oliver eet één klein stukje van zijn kip. “I will take the rest of the chicken in a take-away box, to share it with my brothers.” Ontzettend solidair, want het is voor hem geen dagelijkse kost om kip te eten, maar toch houdt hij zich in om niet alles zelf op te eten. Ik vraag me af of je dat in Nederland nog zo vaak tegenkomt. Tijdens het eten vertellen we hem over ons plan: we gaan een fiets voor hem kopen zodat hij weer dagelijkse inkomsten kan krijgen als hij geen klanten heeft om mee te gaan hiken. Ook sturen we zijn broertje naar school, zodat hij in ieder geval een goede basis krijgt. Oliver is sprakeloos en heeft hij de tranen in z’n ogen staan.

               

Hierna vervolgen we onze weg langzaam richting het noorden. Na nog een stop aan het meer en in een wandelgebied wat heel erg tegenviel, rijden we door naar Livingstonia. Het dorpje ligt op een heuvel. We waren al gewaarschuwd voor de weg omhoog: “het is maar 10km, maar je zult hier zeker een uur over doen. In het begin lijkt het meer een rivierbedding waar je doorheen moet, om vervolgens gedurende 18 haarspeltbochten omhoog te slingeren. Maar de bochten zijn krap, dus met jullie Defender vraag ik me af of je de bochten überhaupt kunt nemen.” Daar is niets aan gelogen: over 9,1km rijden we precies een uur. De kuilen en gaten zijn enorm, de stenen en keien zijn op sommige punten erg puntig waardoor het lastig is om een route te kiezen. Het is moeilijk te beschrijven, zulke wegen kennen we in Europa niet (wij niet althans). Stapvoets kruipen we over de weg omhoog de berg op, in lowgear en de tweede versnelling: het langzaamste wat kan. Het gaat gecontroleerd, dat het is belangrijkste en met veel zweet komen we uiteindelijk boven aan bij de Mushoorm Farm, een camping waar we een mooie plek hebben aan de rand van de berg met uitzicht over het meer. We zetten voor de gezelligheid het zonnepaneel nog maar even op en lopen dan naar het restaurant waar het verrassend druk blijkt te zijn. Overal waar we tot nu toe in Malawi zijn geweest was het super rustig en waren we vaak de enige op een camping. Hier is dat wel anders: ik vermoed dat er een man of 20 is! Iedereen zit lekker aan een biertje/wijntje en de stemming is uitgelaten. Dat is lang geleden dat we op zo’n plek zijn geweest!

We gaan vandaag wandelen: eerst naar Livingstonia, wat zo’n 6km van onze camping ligt en dan op de terugweg langs de hoogste waterval van Malawi: 125m hoog. We zien wat mensen lopen via een shortcut zodat je niet de hele slingerende weg omhoog hoeft te volgen, maar tussen de maïsvelden en dorpjes doorloopt. We nemen die steilere weg ook en komen na ruim een uur volledig bezweet aan in Livingstonia. We hadden gehoord dat het zeker de moeite waard is om het stadje te bezoeken, aangezien het een voormalig Engels koloniaal stadje is. We lopen wat rond, begrijpen niet waarom iedereen naar dit stadje wilt, krijgen een paar druppels regen op ons kop en besluiten dan toch maar om te draaien en terug te lopen richting de waterval. Twan wordt (weer) door veel kinderen ‘Transporter’ genoemd omdat iedereen hem op Jason Statham vindt lijken. Hoe hilarisch, bijna in elk dorp waar we komen in Malawi en rondlopen of -rijden is er wel iemand die Transporter roept of fluistert. Van kindjes van 5 jaar oud, tot volwassen mannen en vrouwen die giechelend wijzen en hem nastaren.

               

Eenmaal bij de waterval betalen we de entree van MK 500 (€0,60) en geven we aan dat we geen gids hoeven. Toch lopen er drie jongens met ons mee die ons willen begeleiden. Ze brengen ons naar de grot waar meer dan honderd jaar geleden de mensen zich verscholen om niet als slaaf op de slavenmarkt in Livingstonia te worden verhandeld. Vervolgens besluiten we naar beneden te lopen met ze, naar de onderkant van de waterval. Het is een flinke afdaling over soms los zand, soms wat meer rotsen, één van de jongens ziet nog een slang wegschieten van ons pad, en we moeten ons af en toe goed vasthouden om niet van de helling te glijden. De waterval is mooi en indrukwekkend van hier beneden, ondanks dat het maar een smalle stroom water is. Twee van onze gidsen besluiten een douche te nemen onder het water en staan daar dus in hun boxershort. Het is duidelijk dat de geruchten over donkere mannen waar zijn! 🙂

Iets lager dan de waterval zit een natural slide: een glijbaan tussen de rotsen. Zonder er al te lang bij na te denken kleden we ons om. Eén van onze gidsen gaat eerst, wat ik wel fijn vind want als hij er zonder kleerscheuren uitkomt dan weet ik dat wij dit ook moeten kunnen. De rotsen waar we over moeten lopen om bij het beginpunt te komen zijn echter zo glibberig, dat ik niet de tijd heb om rustig te gaan zitten om ‘in te stappen’. Ik glij uit en knal over de rotsen de glijbaan af. Het doet ontzettend pijn, de slide gaat hard en ik heb water in m’n neusholte en oren. Proestend kom ik weer boven in het ijskoude water. Dat gaat spierpijn worden!

Met blauwe heupen en ellebogen crossen we snel verder naar Tanzania, op naar Renée, Maurice en Isa!

Benieuwd naar de foto’s? Klik hier.

Én…. we hebben een eerste artikel geschreven voor het 4WD Magazine. Klik hier om naar het artikel te gaan!

1.391 reacties

  1. Hoi Twan en Ingeborg,

    Het lezen van dit verhaal is erg emotioneel. Het stuk over Oliver en zijn broertjes. We kenden het al via ons app en skype contact met jullie, maar als je het leest is het toch weer heel bijzonder wat jullie gedaan hebben. Twan lijkt inderdaad op De Transport Jason Statham. We hebben het eerst op internet op moeten zoeken, kenden die Jason niet. Jullie artikel deze week in 4WD magazine was ook erg mooi, dit blad hebben ze trouwens ook in Doetinchem bij Raadgeep. Goede reis verder.

    Groeten en kusjes,
    Dorien en Ton

  2. 1) Mooi, aandoenlijk verhaal over Oliver de gids!
    2) Kan uiteraard slecht tegen die onzin over kip…
    3) Ik zie je al van die rots afglijden met je pokkel 🙂

    1. 1) Thanks!
      2) Slecht voor de business inderdaad als mensen geen kippen meer eten…
      3) Ik had jou daar wel willen zien 😉

  3. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan,

    Weer een fantastisch verhaal en super dat jullie Oliver aan een fiets hebben geholpen en zijn broertje meehelpen aan een studie, echt top. Het verhaal Gerda is ook wel bijzonder, ik persoonlijk vindt lekker bakken en heerlijk opeten en op naar Gerda 2 🙂 . Nog goede reis en veel ontdekkingen, wij blijven trots op jullie!

    Lieve groet
    Tonny en Eef.

    PS. een bekeuring van € 6,00 niet druk over maken.

    1. Lieve Tonny en Eef,
      Bedankt weer voor jullie leuke bericht! Gelukkig eet ik nog steeds kip, maar zal Gerda niet vergeten 😉
      Xx ons

  4. Indrukwekkende belevenissen… En voor €6,00 kin je nog eens een keer per ongeluk fiks te hard rijden (natuurlijk met uitkijken) . Gerda is een leuke naam. Zo heet mijn moeder. Hoor je niet veel. Ik zou de kip in elk geval zeker niet opeten. Maar ik snap de noodzaak en ook gewoonte van daar. Die fiets zou ik ook kopen voor hem…. echt wel. Maar zo barmhartig zijn jullie gelukkig ook 🙃 Goede reis weer!

  5. Elke keer is het weer een genot jullie belevenissen te lezen .Wat een biezonder verhaal over Olivier. Petje af voor jullie keuze’s hoor. Deze reis van je leven zal voor jullie nog vaak keuzebepalend zijn voor je toekomst. Veel genoegen nog en hartelijke groet v Jaap.

  6. War zijn jullie toch een stel lieverds om Olivier te helpen met de fiets en om zijn broertje naar school te sturen, zit een erg groot hart bij jullie , ben trots op jullie .
    Wat Gerda betreft , jan eet niet voor niets geen kip en van de grote biefstukken ziet hij de slacht niet dus opeten die lappen vlees.😜
    Geniet verder en een veilige reis verder.

    Dikke kus jan en sjanie

  7. Hi kids, wat een fraaie vertelling weer van alle belevenissen! Je neemt de lezer mooi daarin mee! Zie het zo voor mijn ogen gebeuren als je bij de grens een stelletje lamlendigen aantreft en enthousiast uitroept:” Hi guys, how are you today?” op een zodanige manier dat ze vanzelf gaan bewegen:) Malawi lijkt me ook wel wat heb ik besloten. Wat eten betreft zou ik dan toch Gerda’s prefereren boven fritters en nsima. Maar goed, zo heeft ieder zijn smaak. Wel leuk ook om de totaal andere benadering van Johan te lezen als het gaat om kip. Geen mens hetzelfde. En ja, dan het Oliver-verhaal. Kan maar 1 ding zeggen: well done kanjers!! En wat betreft de Trasnporter: nooit van gehoord en Twan lijkt gewoon op zichzelf!
    Verder denk ik dat de oplage van het blad 4WD de komende maanden aanzienlijk zal toenemen:)
    Goede reis kids!!

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