Van lachen-gieren-brullen in Tanzania naar een triest verhaal in Rwanda

Vandaag weer een grensovergang voor de boeg, onze vijfde sinds we zijn gaan rijden. Maar eerst kachelen we naar Karongo, het laatste grotere stadje van Malawi in het noorden. Daar loopt Twan nog een rondje over de markt (“Inge, het is weer zo’n gezellig troeperig marktje! Geweldig, ik hou er zo van!”) en Inge zit in de auto al zwetend de blog van Botswana te uploaden. Het gaat langzaam, maar het gaat: we moeten jullie thuis natuurlijk wel een beetje op de hoogte houden!

In het douanekantoor is het een bende. Overal staan en zitten mensen, overal liggen stapels papiertjes en achter de ramen lijkt het een beetje een ongeorganiseerde bende. We lopen maar naar een raampje waar niemand staat, vissen twee exit cards achter het raam vandaan en vullen die in. Stempelen, stempeltje in het paspoort en door voor het carnet. Ook dat gaat als een speer. Aan de Tanzaniaanse kant gaat het iets minder snel, ondanks dat we meteen aan de beurt zijn. We moeten een visum kopen, road tax en een fuel levy betalen. Hoe? Gezien de corruptie geen cash meer, maar op naar een bank waar je contant geld direct op de rekening van de overheid moet storten. Kost wat extra tijd, maar de strijd tegen corruptie (en volle rekeningen van de overheid…) is merkbaar. Het chassisnummer van de auto wordt nog even gecontroleerd (of het wel echt de auto is die op de papieren staat) en we mogen door!

Het is gelijk anders om weer in Tanzania te zijn. Meer roadblocks (controle punten van de politie), er is ontzettend veel vrachtverkeer op de weg en de mensen zijn minder vriendelijk. Tijdens de eerste stop in een dorpje waar we proberen te pinnen krijgt Inge het aanlokkelijke verzoek “He sister, you want to fuck?”. Waar ze vriendelijk voor bedankte. Dag fijn Malawi, welkom in Tanzania! We zijn terug in Tanzania enerzijds omdat dat de weg naar het noorden is, de weg naar Rwanda of Kenia die we rijden om de route richting Nederland te vervolgen, maar anderzijds is Tanzania ook het land waar Renée en Maurice (en inmiddels Isa) wonen. In plaats door te rijden naar Rwanda (vanaf hier maar 1 dag sturen) maken we dus een omweg van zo’n 2.500 km en 5 daagjes toeren om via Dar Es Salaam te rijden en de nieuwe spruit van onze vrienden te bewonderen!

De weg begint goed, we beginnen namelijk met zo’n 200km weg werkzaamheden. Er lijkt geen eind aan te komen en we worden er dan ook helemaal gek van. China Civil is aan het werk, maar lijkt zich weinig aan te trekken van verkeershinder. Gaat toch wat anders in Nederland…  Onderweg lunchen we steevast local. Er is ook niets anders beschikbaar, maar het klinkt wel leuk. In een paar woordjes Swahili  bestelt Inge twee borden gevuld met, rijst, bonen, spinazie prut en nog een groene-bladeren-prutje. En dat alles voor € 0,76 per persoon. We zitten zo vol als een potje met pieren. Nog even een fotoshoot met het personeel aan het eind (die niet kunnen stoppen met giechelen). We krijgen het vermoeden dat  hier niet zoveel toeristen te stoppen voor een hapje eten.

             

We worden weer een keer van de weg geplukt door de politie, omdat Twan met 60km/h de bult af rijdt in plaats van 50. “You are speeding.” “How fast did we go?” “Sixty something, pay me TS 30.000.” “Sixty how much?” En zo gaat het gesprek nog even door. Wij vinden dat het niet volgens de regels is om mensen die een flinke bult af rijden te gaan staan flitsen. Zij vinden dat wij ons aan de snelheid moeten houden. Uiteindelijk vragen we maar weer eens om een waarschuwing, want we proberen ons echt heel erg goed aan de regels te houden en zijn pas net in het land. En dan verschijnt er een grote glimlach: “Okay, you get a warning. Have a nice day.”

Het mooie van Afrikaanse wild-parken is dat er vaak openbare wegen doorheen gaan. Dus gratis kans op wild-spotten! Tijdens ons ritje door Mikumi NP (waar we aan het begin van onze reis met Demi amper dieren hebben gezien, worden we nog even getrakteerd op hoe is het mogelijk, een leeuwin die rustig te weg oversteekt! We zetten de auto langs de kant van de weg en zien hoe ze nog even naar ons omkijkt en rustig de bosjes in loopt.

De omgeving verandert van kleine dorpjes naar kleine, vieze steden in de grote stad van Dar es Salaam. Renée heeft geregeld dat we de auto binnen de poort bij hun appartement kunnen zetten en we knuffelen erop los op het moment dat we zwetend de auto uitrollen. Goed om elkaar weer te zien! Na de lunch maken we Isa wakker. Wat een schattig kind: een klein ‘Maurice-je’ zien we in het kleine bedje zitten. Een brede lach op haar gezicht, en haar armpjes in de lucht. We tillen haar eruit, ze blijft maar lachen. En dat zal ook niet stoppen blijkt later: bijna de hele dag door zit ze te glimlachen. Ze huilt amper en jengelt bijna niet.

In de middag zetten wij met name wasjes aan, spelen wat met Isa en kletsen bij. De middag vliegt voorbij. Om 18 uur komt Maurice thuis en wordt een fles bubbels open getrokken, lekker!

             

We blijven een week in Dar: even bijkomen, even een echt bed met een badkamer waar je gewoon op je blote voeten rond kunt lopen en je ook geen ladder voor af hoeft. HEERLIJK!

We doen natuurlijk nog wel wat in Dar, dus hierbij onze belangrijkste conclusies:

  1. Wat kost een kind veel energie, respect voor Renée (en ook voor onze papa’s en mama’s)
  2. Een echt bed, een eigen badkamer (die ook nog eens schoon is!), wat een genot. We zijn inmiddels wat verwilderd…
  3. Een Land Rover onderdelenshop vinden is als het niet op Google te vinden is nog niet altijd even makkelijk, maar gevonden en de voorraden zijn weer aangevuld!
  4. OLA (Ouwe Lulle Avond met kook-clubje) blijft erg leuk en lekker, zie de resultaten.
  5. WIE IS DE MOL rules! We spelen de allerlaatste pakjes vragen van het spel uit! We want more!
  6. In Dar es Salaam geen gebrek aan goede restaurants!

Wij twijfelen ondertussen vrolijk verder over onze route, via Egypte, of toch Saoedi? En hoe zit het met de kerst, willen we dan eigenlijk niet alweer thuis zijn? Uiteindelijk hakken we maar weer de knoop door en besluiten definitief (zover dat bij ons mogelijk is) via Egypte te gaan reizen en de kerst en O&N thuis te vieren met familie en vrienden. Om dit wat kracht bij te zetten hebben we voor begin december 2 weken wintersport in St. Anton geboekt. Een mooie manier om veilig te stellen dat we daadwerkelijk naar Europa komen en een lekker actieve, maar rustige afsluiting van onze 500 dagen op reis hebben!

De week vliegt voorbij en we rijden, omdat we Tanzania enigszins boycotten, in één ruk door naar Rwanda. In één ruk klinkt heel snel en makkelijk, maar in praktijk is de bijna 1.500km lange rit naar de grens door alle dorpen, drempels en gaten gewoon drie volle dagen in de Land Rover cruisen.  Onderweg worden we aangehouden omdat we wederom te hard rijden (klopt). Na veel onderhandelen vragen ze om een kopje thee (??), gezien ze de hele dag in de auto langs de kant van de weg moeten zitten. Dit is het teken dat ze wel in zijn voor een ‘bribe’, dus na het betalen van een derde van de originele boete en uiteraard zonder bonnetje mogen we weer doorrijden.

Op het laatste stuk naar de grens wordt het heuvelachtig en al snel staan we met rokende remmen langs de kant van de weg. Shit, was Rwanda ook niet erg bergachtig? Shit, gaat dit een probleem worden? Na wat afkoeltijd rijden we verder, maar ook de volgende berg/heuvel af is het weer raak. Gelukkig zijn we inmiddels experts in het zoeken naar roadside assistance (zoals de ANWB) en al snel vinden we in de snikhitte aan de grens een bushmechanic die ons wel kan helpen. Vakkundig (?) wordt ons voorwiel gedemonteerd, de remschijven los gehaald en alles schoongemaakt. Het oordeel: de zuigers aan één kant klemden, waardoor de remblokken tegen de schijf bleven drukken. Maar alles is nu opgelost en we kunnen weer verder! De tip: vervang ook je remblokken, die zijn niet goed meer (ongelijk afgesleten). De grensovergang Tanzania-Rwanda is er één voor in de boekjes: binnen 40 minuten in-en-uit. Top!

             

Gezien het repareren van de auto behoorlijk lang duurde, kamperen we net over de grens in Rwanda ergens langs de weg (wild camping). We redden het niet meer voor het donker naar een echte camping. Al snel ziet het letterlijk zwart van de mensen om ons heen. Alles is bijzonder: de stoelen, een tafel, een daktent, een gasfles, koekjes, dat we er überhaupt waren. Dus uiteraard bleven ze tot het inmiddels meer dan donker was en de dorps-chief ze naar huis stuurde. Maar wat een vriendelijke mensen! De volgende dag om half 6 stonden er alweer vier kinderen onderaan de ladder.

Je raadt het al, als we de volgende dag verder rijden beginnen de remmen weer te roken. Gezien we het onderhoud willen rekken tot de volgende grote stad proberen we met zoveel mogelijk remmen op de motor en sterk-anticiperend rijden door te gaan. Uiteindelijk vinden we monteur Isa, onze nieuwe steun en toeverlaat, onze rots in de branding. Het probleem van de remmen heeft hij al snel gezien: de schijven zijn niet goed meer. (Dat hadden die andere monteurs natuurlijk ook moeten weten. De remblokken, nee die zijn nog niet aan vervanging toe…) Hij lijkt er een stuk meer van te snappen dan de monteurs aan de grens, dus nu we er toch zijn en het laatste onderhoud 7.500km geleden is, laten we gelijk oliën vervangen, nieuwe filters plaatsen, alles wat draait weer even opnieuw smeren en wat lekt afdichten. De olie, filters etc. hebben we zelf al in Dar es Salaam gekocht, want de onderdelen zijn niet overal beschikbaar. Heb je het zelf bij je, dan is het uitvoeren van het onderhoud zo gepiept!

Maar ook Isa, onze rots lijkt het nog niet opgelost te hebben. De volgende heuvel/berg af, staan we namelijk weer met rokende remmen langs de weg. Dit keer aan de rechterkant van de weg, want Rwanda is het eerste rechts-rijdende land dat we zijn tegengekomen sinds Zuid-Afrika (en eigenlijk sinds we uit Turkije zijn vertrokken meer dan een jaar geleden). Gezien we inmiddels wel klaar zijn met de rem-problemen, remmen helemáál niet cruciaal zijn op een auto in de bergen en we alweer richting Oeganda op weg zijn, crossen we gewoon door. Dat lossen we later wel weer op!

             

Aangekomen in de hoofdstad van Rwanda, Kigali, bezoeken we The Genocide Memorial: een zeer indrukwekkend museum. Wat er in Rwanda zo’n 20 jaar geleden is gebeurd zet ons weer flink aan het denken. Wat doen we elkaar toch allemaal aan? Voor degene die het niet meer scherp hebben een kleine samenvatting: in Rwanda hebben verschillende koloniale machthebbers een versterkte scheiding aangebracht op de economische status van de bevolking (Hutu en Tutsi’s). Eigenlijk simpelweg bepaald op hoeveel vee je had. Ondanks dat er geen opdeling was op basis van “stammen” of uiterlijke kenmerken, verschillende talen of iets anders, werd een etnische scheiding aangebracht en werd de term Hutu of Tutsi op een ID kaart gezet. Tutsi’s werden door de kolonialen als superieur beschouwd omdat ze een iets lichtere huidskleur hadden dan de Hutu’s. Ze waren rijker en sterker vertegenwoordigd in politiek, ondanks dat ze een minderheid binnen de bevolking waren.

De massa (Hutu) werden langzaam maar zeker door continue propaganda tegen de Tutsi’s opgezet. Tutsi’s werden ondertussen beschouwd als buitenlandse indringers die de ‘autochtone’ Hutu’s hadden onderworpen en al in 1963 heeft President Kayibanda voor het eerst gedreigd het hele Tutsi ras volledig uit te roeien. In 1990 werden de Hutu 10 geboden gepubliceerd, een propagandastuk waarin elke Hutu die met een Tutsi zaken deed of trouwde werd bestempeld als een verrader. Gebod nr. 8 luidde: “Hutu’s moeten geen medelijden meer hebben met Tutsi’s”. In 1994 barste de bom, en werden in een periode van 100 dagen (van 6 april tot half juli) naar schatting tussen de 500.000 en 1 miljoen Tutsi’s en gematigde Hutu’s afgeslacht. Duizenden mensen verzamelden zich in kerken, scholen, ziekenhuizen en overheidsgebouwen. Dat gebeurde in veel gevallen op aanwijzing van plaatselijke leiders en geestelijken die ze bescherming beloofden, maar stiekem de genocide een handje hielpen: de slachtoffers werden systematisch vermoord met machetes, met kogels en handgranaten, door de gebouwen waarin ze zaten opgesloten in brand te steken of met bulldozers met de grond gelijk te maken. Vrouwen en kinderen werden niet gespaard. In veel gevallen werden slachtoffers eerst gemarteld, vrouwen verkracht en opzettelijk met HIV besmet.

             

Jules, de meest zachtaardige en vriendelijke Rwandees die we hebben ontmoet, vertelt ons in Frans en handen en voeten Engels dat zijn volledige familie is afgeslacht tijdens de genocide. Geen vader, geen moeder, geen broers en zussen meer. Alleen een oom. Die oom is de oorzaak dat hij nog leeft. Rwanda had goede banden met de Fransen ten tijde dat de hel los brak. Toen hij 5 maanden oud was heeft zijn oom hem naar Frankrijk weten te sturen, in een vliegtuig vol andere baby’s. Na bijna 10 jaar in Frankrijk keerde hij terug naar het land waar hij vandaan kwam, maar niemand meer kende en verder opgroeide in een weeshuis. Bij dit soort gesprekken kan je gewoon niet anders dan respect hebben voor dit soort mensen, maar ook een gevoel van frustratie kunnen we niet onderdrukken. Hoe kan het dat dit nog steeds gebeurd? Waarom is het zo makkelijk op om NU.nl te lezen dat er mensen dood gaan aan de andere kant van de wereld, maar is het een probleem als de trein een keer te laat is of we slecht weer verwachten? Het bijzondere in Rwanda is dat mensen vooruit kijken. Unaniem zegt iedereen (ook Jules die iedereen verloren heeft) dat er geen Hutu’s en Tutsi’s meer zijn, dat iedereen Rwandees is en dat niemand zoiets ooit nog wil meemaken. Ze werken hard om van hun land een goed land te maken.

Ongelooflijk, je over haat en nijd heen kunnen zetten en werken aan een toekomst in plaats van in een vicieuze cirkel van vergelding te geraken. Inspirerend en knap van de mensen, maar ook van de overheid die in Rwanda sterk aan de weg timmert. Rwanda is een bijzonder land, dat ondanks de armoede een goede kant op lijkt te gaan. Stabiel, gereguleerd en met één gedachte werkend aan de toekomst. Dat op 4 augustus de huidige president met 98% van de stemmen herkozen is klinkt dan ook logisch en voelt goed.

Om onze zinnen weer te verzetten besluiten we om naar een vulkaanmeer te hiken in het Parque National des Volcanos. Boven op 3.700 meter hoogte wacht een kratermeer op ons, met aan de overzijde van de krater The Congo! Zullen alle militairen die met ons meelopen hier de reden van zijn? De gids vertelt uiteraard dat de militairen er zijn ter bescherming tegen het wild dat hier rond loopt. Ja ja… Het startpunt van de hike is ook het startpunt van gorillatrackings waar Rwanda behoorlijk beroemd mee is geworden. In het seizoen starten elke dag meer dan 100 toeristen, die per acht naar een eigen gorilla familie worden gebracht. De prijs: een luttele USD 1500 (!!!!) per persoon. Het gemiddelde dagsalaris in dit land is enkele dollars. De vooral Amerikaanse toeristen lijken er niet heel erg van onder de indruk en we zien ze dan ook briefjes van 10 dollar als fooi geven aan een lokale danseres. Na alles wat we gezien hebben in Afrika, weten we dat dit goed is voor de economie, maar laat het ook op een bijzondere manier de scheefheid van de wereld zien.

Gezien we nog niet genoeg hadden van de grens met Kongo, hebben we ook nog even een grenspost bezocht tijdens een rondje hardlopen in Gisenyi. We mochten bijna niet meer vertrekken dankzij een over-het-paard getilde douanebeambte die toch echt wilde laten zien dat hij de langste had. Hij dacht dat we al rennen vanuit Kongo Rwanda in wilden komen. Uiteraard hadden we ons paspoort niet bij ons, wat resulteerde in een 45min durende discussie/ruzie. Een medewerkster van de VN, die net Kongo in wilde gaan, zei nog geruststellend: wees blij dat je dit probleem in Rwanda hebt, en niet aan de andere kant van de grens!

           

Nu we wat meer in het Afrika-zonder-grote-hoeveelheden-aan-activiteiten zijn beland, genieten we meer van alles wat het lokale leven te bieden heeft. De lokale markten bezoeken (en de enige blanken zijn), in een drukte van jewelste, de paden zijn smal en overal proberen mensen wat te verkopen. Een ring van slagers, vervolgens de mensen met groente en fruit, dat overgaat in een buitenrand van telefoonwinkeltjes. Daarbinnen kun je stoffen kopen, kleding, schoenen, souvenirs, en ga zo maar door. Overal tussendoor zitten mannen en vrouwen achter antieke naaimachines kleren te maken of te repareren. We belanden uiteindelijk op de schoenenafdeling en besluiten allebei tweedehands schoenen te kopen: ik een paar nieuwe Nikes, Twan koopt Salomon schoenen met een aantrekkoordje. Allemaal uit de zak van Max.

             

Na het shoppen is het zo half 6, en omdat we eigenlijk naar de markt gingen voor een snack, zoeken we een restaurantje op. We vinden er één die vol zit met motortaxi-chauffeurs. Ze lijken verschillende gerechten te eten. We kijken dus bij een paar mannen op hun bord om te zien wat er gegeten wordt, aangezien we de menukaart niet kunnen lezen. Er is zelfs één man die me zijn lepel aanbiedt, zodat ik een hap van zijn bord kan nemen. Kun je het voorstellen in Nederland? We eten een ‘mixed plate’: een compleet logische maaltijd gebruik makend van de schijf van 5: friet, spaghetti zonder saus, rijst zonder saus, bruine bonen, een gekookte aardappel, een gebakken banaan, bovenop dit alles ligt een bedje van ui en sla met erop een kwak mayo. Plus nog een stuk rundvlees/draadjesvlees. Daarnaast krijg je nog een schaaltje met saus die je over dit geheel heen kiept. We kijken om ons heen en zijn helemaal blij, waarom vinden we het toch zo leuk om op van die local-local marktjes te lopen, te praten met handen en voeten om duidelijk te krijgen wat je wilt en te eten op plekken waar het er afschuwelijk uitziet? We weten het niet, maar het blijft leuk!

Rwanda is maar een klein landje in Afrika en we zijn er weer doorheen. Oeganda is de volgende bestemming!

Voor de foto’s: klik hier. (Vanwege de goede internetverbinding hebben we Oeganda ook alvast geüpload. Maar dat verhaal krijg je over een paar weken pas te lezen!)

362 reacties

  1. Hoi Twan en Inge,

    Bedankt voor het nieuwe verhaal. We moeten de foto’s nog bekijken, maar die zullen ook zeker weer mooi zijn. Dorien is trouwens ff naar Didam kijken of daar de nieuwe 4WD magazine met jullie Afrika artikel ligt. In Doetinchem is-ie uit de schappen gehaald (jammer). We zien ook uit naar het boek! De eerste stukjes verhaal op de site waren leuk! Fijn weekend (vanaf morgen samen met Jos). Doei.

    Groetjes,
    Dorien en Ton

  2. Weer een mooi verhaal beste kids! En kan me voorstellen dat je wel ff een stukje wilde omrijden om jullie vrienden met hun energie slurpende Isa in Dar es Salam te bezoeken. En inderdaad, jullie (Inge in elk geval) waren precies hetzelfde:). De reis doet wel wat met je, maakt het verslag wel duidelijk. De enorme verschillen in standaard tussen daar en hier zijn moeilijk te verkroppen. Zet je aan het denken. Je wordt er zeker een breder gevormd mens door.
    Met de aankondiging van toch maar door Egypte en een wintersport in december begint het ook hier nu wel te voelen als “ze zijn er bijna”. We houden nog ff vol! Geniet verder van het avontuur!
    De foto van het boek op de site doet het goed!
    En Ton, de 4WD komt naar wij weten as dinsdag pas in de winkel. Roos een ex gereserveerd. Ze neemt er eentje voor je mee als die er nog is als je wilt.
    Groet en knuffel van Roos en Paul

  3. Was weer een mooi verslag van jullie avontuur in Afrika en leuk dat jullie bij jullie vrienden in Tanzania zijn geweest (was toch maar een korte omweg).
    Kon het niet laten de foto s van Oeganda ook gelijk maar bekeken , ben benieuwd naar het wildwaterverslag was heftig zo op de foto’s te zien.

    Dikke kus vanuit portugal

  4. Wat een prachtige foto’s en verhalen. Natuurlijk heb ik de Oeganda-foto’s ook al bekeken en zo te zien ging het er bij het raften erg wild aan toe. Wat is het overal mooi. Blijf lekker genieten van de schoonheid van alle landen waar je doorheen reist en van alle verhalen van de leuke mensen die jullie ontmoeten.

  5. Hallo Twan en Ingeborg,

    Wat een mooi verhaal weer en mooie foto’s.
    Wat maken jullie een boel mee.
    En wat lees ik een boek Ingeborg leuk, ik meld me vast aan wil het graag lezen.
    En nu aftellen naar Kerst.

    Groeten en nog veel reis plezier.
    Bennie en Pia

  6. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan.
    Iedere keer weer is het een feestje om jullie verslag te lezen en jullie waarnemingen in te laten dalen.Leuke plannen voor de komende maanden!Kun je daar ook ski- vakantie materiaal krijgen en wordt de 4wd ook van ski’s voorzien😊.Of hebben jullie al een rol in de nieuwste James Bond film😁
    Ik wens jullie een behouden thuisreis en genoeg ruimte in je hoofd om alles op te kunnen bergen.
    Geniet ervan met elkaar,
    Hartelijke groet van Jaap.

  7. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan.
    Weer een bijzonder verhaal en af en toe toch ook wel weer spannend! Maar het begint nu naar het eind te lopen en we duimen dat er verder geen gekke dingen gebeuren. Foto’s zijn weer fantastisch en wat zullen jullie veel te vertellen hebben. Het blad hebben we inmiddels gelezen echt een goed en mooi verhaal we kijken uit naar het boek. Groetjes en veilige reis Tonny en Eef.

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