Kopje Nijl of kopje koeienbloed?

We verlaten Rwanda en komen aan bij een kleine camping gerund door een Nederlander aan Lake Bunyonyi. Het uitzicht is prachtig, de zon is sterk, dus we klappen onze luifel uit en gaan aan de slag met een lekkere lunch. Maar binnen nog geen vijftien minuten komen de donkere wolken en komt het met bakken uit de lucht. De luifel zetten we onder een scherpe hoek zodat het regenwater eraf loopt en we bedenken dat dit onze eerste keer kamperen in de regen is! De conclusie is dat het toch wat minder fijn is dan in de zon staan J. Dus in de regen (het plenst) gooien we alle spullen terug in de auto en rollen we de luifel weer in. Drijfnat stappen we in de auto, dan komt het volgende obstakel: de weg terug… Lake Bunyony is namelijk ontstaan in de vallei van omliggende bergen. De laatste 15km naar de campsite reden we dan ook op een zandweg tussen de bergwand en het meer onder ons. Met de huidige regen kan de rit terug wel eens wat anders worden dan 3 uur geleden op de heenweg. Ruitenwissers op maximaal, windblazers op maximaal, diff-lock ingeschakeld (4WD aan) en daar gaan we. De weg is op veel plekken niet meer te zien, het enige wat je ziet is een stroom van water, modder of een combinatie daarvan. We voelen dat de auto goede grip heeft dus we geven stevig gas de bult omhoog om de camping te verlaten. De regen blijft doorgaan en over de weg lopen inmiddels kleine riviertjes vanaf de berg, ook zijn er door het vele water al veel puin, stenen en kiezels de weg op gerold. Aan de linkerkant van de weg, de kant van het meer, zien we de eerste kleine aard-verzakkingen. Geen plek om lang te blijven, dus vol gas stuiteren we door over de slechte weg. Ollie houd zich goed en na 15km zit het modder tot op het dak, maar we zitten weer op asfalt.

              

Vanaf het meer rijden we in 420km naar Kampala. De weg is prachtig maar wat regenachtig her en der. Onderweg zien we veel fietsers richting de marktjes gaan, volgeladen met ananassen. We kopen van een man twee ananassen van zijn fiets: USH 2.000 per stuk moet het volgens hem kosten. Ik kijk hem lachend aan: “I don’t want a mzungu price, I want the local price.” “Okay,” zegt hij. “one thousand for one.” (12 eurocent…) Dat lijkt er meer op!

Onderweg pakken we zoals eigenlijk bijna elke dag sinds we in Oeganda zijn een rolexy. Dit is dé lokale maaltijd-snack van Oeganda. Het recept? Men neme een stukje ui, wat knoflook, een beetje tomaat en snijd dit fijn, stopt dit in een viezig kopje, daar voeg je aan toe een eitje, veel zout, wat meel en flink roeren. Op je gietijzeren plaatje, die op kolen flink warm is geworden druip je wat olie en begin je je omeletje te bakken. Vervolgens pak je een home-made roti (een soort pannenkoek van water, zout en wat olie) en deze leg je erop. Het geheel nog even omdraaien zodat de roti ook even opgebakken wordt. Vork aan één zijde erin en daarin rol je het geheel op. Resultaat: een heerlijke rolexy. Lekker voor ontbijt, lunch en diner. Of gewoon wanneer je er zin in hebt!

              

Onderweg besef ik me opeens dat we vandaag over de evenaar komen. Maar waar? Het voelt voor mij als een bijzonder moment. Twan zoekt dus snel op internet waar het plaatsje is: nog 60km rijden. Zodra we er zijn is het duidelijk dat dit de evenaar is: er loopt een brede gele lijn over de weg. Links en rechts is een soort kunstwerk gemaakt waar iedereen natuurlijk mee op de foto wil. Ook zijn er bakken water neergezet, zodat je kunt testen dat aan de andere kant van de evenaar het water echt andersom door het doucheputje draait. We maken wat foto’s met de auto bij het monument, laten een lokale vrouw foto’s maken (met een hele instructie van wat ik in beeld wil hebben en wat niet, aangezien ze hier niet zo goed in compositie zijn). Super leuk!

              

Na 10 uur rijden komen we aan in Kampala, de hoofdstad van Oeganda. Het hostel waar we eerst naartoe wilde gaan blijkt op locatie 2x zo duur dan verwacht, via Booking.com zoeken we dus snel een ander hotel op. Gezien het spitsuur is hadden we waarschijnlijk beter kunnen blijven, maar dan hadden de lokale mensen op de grootste markt van Kampala toch echt gemist dat er een Land Rover Defender dwars over de markt gestuurd werd, midden tussen de kraampjes door, half over de kleedjes, midden tussen de mensen. Het duurt een kleine 20 minuten, veel merkwaardige, nieuwsgierige en vrolijke blikken onze auto in, maar dan zijn we de markt weer af en kunnen we weer verder de drukke wegen op.

Aangekomen bij het hotel staat het parkeerterrein aardig vol. Beneden is een bar met een sauna? Vreemde combinatie… Boven is het hotel. Het is inmiddels bijna 20.00 uur en er worden nu nog kamers schoongemaakt. De lampjes in de gang zijn rood, groen, blauw, alle kleuren voor de ‘gezelligheid’. We hebben meteen het gevoel dat het een hoerenhuis is: even overdag een kamertje huren om een nummertje te maken…! We kiezen een kamer op de 2e verdieping omdat het geluid van de bar nogal luid is. In de kamer wordt ons vermoeden bevestigd: er zit plastic om de matrassen en zodra Twan de huisregels leest schieten we in de lach: nummer 5 zegt ‘geen gebruikte condooms uit het raam gooien of door de wc spoelen. Er zijn emmertjes neergezet!’ Geniaal! ’s Avonds, als we uit de bar terugkomen, zien we een opgedirkt vrouwtje in de receptie zitten en kijkt ons lonkend aan. Ook loopt er een vrouw in een zusterspakje rond…

Gezien dit toch niet een hotel was om meerdere dagen te blijven, besluiten we na het ontbijt (gekookte aardappel met jus) door te rijden naar de kustplaats Entebbe. We vinden een gezellige backpackers en we lopen nog naar een lokaal marktje. Het blijft fantastisch leuk om daar rond te lopen, waarom weten we nog niet helemaal? Het stinkt ontzettend, overal ligt plastic en afvalresten, je loopt tussen halfbakken hutjes van papier, stenen, plastic zeil en houten skeletten, iedereen kijkt je aan (het is meer staren) en spreekt er maar een half woord Engels. We voelen ons dus helemaal thuis! We willen weer wat gezonder gaan eten, aangezien we wel veel lokaal (goedkoop) eten wat niet allemaal heel erg gezond is. Op de markt is ook een visboertje, die vis staat te fileren. Wat voor vis het is weten we niet, maar het komt uit Lake Victoria (het grootste meer van Afrika). We kopen een halve kilo, wat al best veel lijkt. Twan maakt er een super maaltijd van: boontjes in soyasaus, ui en knoflook, de vis ook gemarineerd daarin. Plus gekookte aardappel. Heerlijk.

In Jinja staan we op de Nile River Explorers campsite, met een prachtig uitzicht op de Nijl! Hier boeken we een raft-tour over de white Nile. De rivier die in Khartoem (Sudan) met de Blue Nile samen dé Nijl – zoals wij hem kennen – vormt.  We hebben 8 rapids en 25km Nijl voor de boeg. We zijn super benieuwd. Onze Ierse vrienden zien het gelukkig ook zitten om nat te worden en om te slaan, dus we kunnen mooi de pittige route pakken. En dat lukt prima! De eerste rapid is een flinke slide naar beneden, de kracht van het water is meteen weer duidelijk! We peddelen fanatiek, maar bij de 3e rapid kunnen we het niet tegenhouden en slaan we om. Wow wat is het water hard als je erop komt, wat smaakt de Nijl als normaal water (ondanks dat het hier wemelt van de Bilharzia, een parasiet die zich in je lichaam tot een flinke worm ontwikkelt. Op zoek naar nieuwe pilletjes dus!), en wat ben ik blij dat een safety kayak me naar de boot terug peddelt. Ook bij de 6e rapid slaan we om, hoewel Twan en onze gids eerder vinden dat ik uit de boot sprong, maar goed. Onze gids is een Oegandees die een nogal bijzondere blik op z’n lokale medemens heeft. Hoe dat zit? Dat is een verhaal dat we bewaren voor in het 2e boek… 🙂

              

In Kenia aangekomen besluiten we naar Lake Baringo te gaan. Een prachtig meertje waar maar weinig toeristen te vinden zijn. Op onze camping komen we er welgeteld 2 tegen. Een vreemde Fransoos die na 2 weken in Kenia te hebben gewandeld alles over het land meent te weten en Hugh, een aardige vent uit Zuid-Afrika die ook met z’n auto onderweg is en een flinke toer door Afrika maakt. Kenia is zijn noordelijkste punt in Afrika en rijdt daarna weer terug naar Johannesburg. Hij maakt deze trip omdat hij niet precies weet wat hij wil in z’n leven. Hij heeft net z’n baan opgezegd, was een tijdje geleden gescheiden en z’n ex-vrouw en dochter wonen in London, terwijl zijn hart nog steeds in Zuid-Afrika ligt.

Hugh heeft mogelijk nog een goede tip, we moeten naar Maralal (waar hij zelf hierna ook heen gaat), want daar is de grootste kamelenrace van Afrika! En wanneer? Over 2 dagen. Dat besluit was snel genomen. De dag erna springen we in de auto voor zo’n 160km, waar we ruim 6uur over doen. De weg is k*t, maar de uitzichten zijn prachtig. Langs de weg lopen veel Masai herders, die altijd op pad lijken te zijn met hun vee naar nieuw gras, water of wat anders. We rijden langs meren en moeten meerdere bergpassen nemen. Maar het grote obstakel van de dag is de modder. We moeten over een stuk van zo’n 10km met blub, zo dik dat het overal aan kleeft. Als we beginnen met rijden (met 4WD ingeschakeld) glijden we stapvoets nog steeds alle kanten op. De locals wijzen ons welke weg we moeten nemen. Maar, hé zien we dat nou goed, staan ze al klaar met scheppen en touwen voor het geval we vast komen te zitten? “No sir, this is the right way, easy for you”. Na 20 meter rechtdoor, besluiten we de vriendelijke man die duidelijk wel wat werk voor ons wilde doen als we vast kwamen te zitten toch maar niet te vertrouwen. We stappen uit en gaan eerst ons eigen pad maar eens verkennen. De modder kleeft na 10 meter als 3cm onder en 3cm rondom je schoenen. Je moet oppassen om niet onderuit te gaan, zo glad is het. Maar we vinden wel een betere weg! Vol op het gas om niet vast te komen zitten scheuren we door de modder heen. Helpen onderweg nog met het duwen van een andere auto (waardoor Twan zelf helemaal onder de modder komt te zitten) en glibberen weer verder. Next stop: Maralal.

              

Eenmaal in Maralal blijkt de kamelenrace een groot event te zijn, waar de tradities van de Samburu (lokale stam) gevierd en verklaard worden. Op de avond voorafgaand aan de race komen alle sponsoren en organisatoren bij elkaar in het restaurant van onze camping. Wij worden ook uitgenodigd. Na eindeloos veel speeches begint eindelijk de borrel. De vertegenwoordiger van de KSB Bank, de hoofdsponsor, komt naar me toe: er zijn een aantal Samburu vrouwen die lokale yoghurt bij zich hebben, of ik dat wil proberen. Natuurlijk, altijd leuk! Ik loop met hem mee. De vrouw begint direct te glimlachen en pakt een willekeurig kopje bij iemand uit z’n hand, schenkt het vol en duwt het in m’n hand. Ik begin te twijfelen: het is nogal donker dus ik kan niet goed in het kopje kijken, maar het lijkt een bruinige drap met klonten te zijn. Ik ruik: ijzer. “Better taste with some sugar,” zegt de bankman. Ik gooi er voor de zekerheid een schep in en verzamel moed. Zonder al te lang te twijfelen neem ik een slokje. De vrouw kijkt me vol blijdschap aan, de bankman vertelt dat hij net twee koppen opheeft en de fotograaf blijft maar foto’s van me maken. Het is echt enorm vies… “It’s a very new taste for me, what is it?” De man legt uit: het is erg gezond, de Samburu drinken het om te voorkomen dat ze malaria krijgen. Het is gemaakt van een klein beetje melk, veel lokale planten en kruiden en het merendeel is koeienbloed. Op dat moment heb ik net het kopje aan m’n mond om nog een slokje te nemen, maar ik bedenk me snel. “Oh nice, let’s go to my husband, I think he wants to try as well!” De bankman en de fotograaf lopen met me mee. Ik geef Twan het kopje, hij proeft voorzichtig. En nog een keer… Tot ook hij doorheeft wat hij eigenlijk drinkt! De fotograaf klikt ondertussen maar door, hij vindt het fantastisch dat die blanken hun lokale drankje lekker lijken te vinden!

              

De volgende ochtend, de dag van de race, zien we eerst een lokale bruiloft met bijbehorende gebruiken op onze nuchtere maag. Een geit wordt met een speer tussen de ribben in de longen gestoken, geslacht, het bloed gedronken en er wordt gedanst. De bruidegom kijkt nog niet erg blij, maar dat zullen de zenuwen wel zijn. De voorbereidingen van de (amateur) kamelenrace zijn hilarisch. Na het inschrijven is het tijd om je kameel uit te kiezen. De onbetwiste winnaar (aldus de blanke Keniaanse meid, die zich hier goed op voorbereid had en specifiek die kameel had gekozen) was al bezet, dus Twan werd geholpen aan een kameel die zeker 2e zou kunnen worden… Na een test-zit op de kameel (dat zit niet lekker) en een kleine warming-up lijnen ze op voor de start. Dit gaat hobbel-technisch een vreselijke 10km worden, dat voel je aan alles. Het start-schot gaat en de kamelen drijvers beginnen te rennen, hopende dat de kamelen hetzelfde doen. Met succes komt de groep kamelen met amateurs (lees toeristen) in beweging. De kopgroep wordt gevormd door, hoe kan het ook anders, de blanke Keniaanse meid op de eerste plek. Twan lijkt stabiel 4e te liggen na de eerste meters. Hoe het zit op een kameel? Nou dat ding gaat alle kanten op, echt zitten gaat niet want dan krijg je elke keer die bult in je kont en 10km in een squat houding staan is ook erg lastig voor de beenspieren. Alle deelnemers hebben een verschillende techniek. Een Israëlische meid met een dikke kont lijkt het zitten aardig aan te kunnen, maar zal er toch aan het eind van de race flink last van hebben vermoedt Twan. En dan, na ruim een uur wachten, zie ik in de verte de kamelen aankomen. Er begint iemand enthousiast door de microfoon te tetteren en het publiek begint te juichen. Ik tuur in de verte, zie ik dat nou goed? Ligt Twan op kop? Ik heb bijna de slappe lach als hij juichend en joelend over de finish komt, met verkrampte benen maar een enorme grijns. Na zo’n 7km had de kameel van Twan er flink zin in en zette de achtervolging in op de kopgroep. De derde plek werd overgenomen omdat die kameel meer zin in het gras langs de weg had, dan te rennen. De tweede plek werd in sprint op pure kracht veroverd en voor de eerste plek moest er stevig geknokt worden. De blanke Keniaanse meid wilde haar plek niet makkelijk opgeven. Toen eenmaal de eerste plek bereikt was, was het een kwestie van je eigen kameel in het pad blijven zetten van de nummer 2 en tada, zo wordt je eerste in een kamelen race voor amateurs. De Nationale TV is aanwezig en voordat Twan op adem kan komen, wordt hij van z’n kameel gehaald om met meerdere camera’s voor zijn neus te worden geïnterviewd.

In Nairobi vragen we het visum voor Ethiopië en Sudan aan. We waren bang dat Ethiopië erg lastig zou worden, maar na 2 volle dagen van wachten (in spanning) in de Ethiopiaanse ambassade, de Nederlandse ambassade, print shops en very local eetplekken kregen we het felbegeerde papiertje. Sudan ging wat makkelijker, dus na een week in Nairobi is het tijd om via het droge noorden van Kenia richting Ethiopië te gaan rijden.

              

En ook niet onbelangrijk: in Nairobi zijn de definitieve stukken van mijn boek naar de drukker gestuurd. Vanaf 25 oktober is het boek te koop! Kijk ook vast op www.500dagenopreis.nl

                 

Klik hier voor de foto’s van Oeganda (voor diegenen die vorige keer nog niet hadden gekeken) en de nieuwe upload van Kenia!

Nog benieuwd naar ons 2e artikel in het 4WD Magazine? Klik maar door!

 

2.504 reacties

  1. Lieve Ingeborg en Twan,

    Ongelofelijk dat Ollie het trekt met deze wegen. En dat jullie magen het volhouden met dit soort drankjes als koeienbloed. Een bijzonder videootje en een bijzonder certificaat van de kamelenrace! Het einde van de reis nadert nu met rasse schreden, maar wat een belevenissen. En de boeken zitten er binnenkort aan te komen!

    Groetjes en kusjes, van
    Dorien en Ton

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  2. Hi kids,
    denk dat de meesten van ons (je lezende publiek) toch een heel ander beeld van Oeganda hebben dan je schetst in dit verhaal. Toch maar eens naar het reisbureau voor een gids; wie wil er nu niet verse ananas eten voor veel te weinig (!!!), over de markt hobbelen terwijl de bananen welhaast de auto in worden geduwd, pal op de evenaar staan en de wondere wetten van de natuurkunde bewaarheid zien worden (geen filmpje van gemaakt?), avonturieren door de modderstromen, proeven aan de Nijl tijdens een enerverende raft-trip, bloeddrankjes nemen tegen malaria ipv dagelijks pillen slikken en tot slot de kamelenrace beleven door er aan mee te doen. Begin een reisbureau gericht op dit soort trips: succes verzekerd. Het is maar een idee……
    Pas op jezelf en blijf heel,
    dikke knuffel van Roos en pa

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  3. Laatst vroeg ik me af of ik niet heel maf was om mijn auto en mijn – overigens flitsende- electrische rolstoel een naam te geven. Maar zelfs in verre oorden wordt dit dus gedaan. Ik zou willen dat Ollie & Iris elkaar konden ontmoeten tussen de rare pannenkoekjes met tomaat, Ananassen op de verkopersfiets en ergens tussen de evenaar. Ik kan daar echter wel van wegdromen in jullie komende boek. Dat zal ik vanuit mijn bijna 24 uurs bed wel erg waarderen. Ik kan écht doen alsof ik me ook begeef tussen Gerda’s & Koeienbloed. Daarom is het ook extra leuk om te lezen. Twee beste mensen op een soms bloederig avontuur. Niets wordt overgeskagen. Zelfs de veelbewogen bedden niet van de hoerentent. Maar ach… wat deert het? Jullie weten wel beter wat echte liefde is. En wij ook. Veel plezier weer.

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  4. He Bannetje en Twan,

    wat een mooi verhaal weer. ik zit nog steeds vol verbazing te lezen hoe jullie dit allemaal doen en meemaken .Echt fantastisch. Ik ben benieuwd naar de boeken.

    X en voorzichtig.

    Gr
    Remco

  5. Jongelui

    Het was weer een genot om jullie avonturen te lezen,in de blubber, slapen in een hoeraten slapen ( niet wakker geworden van het gebonk) 😜,kamelenrace geweldig en twan goed gedaan eerste prijs en op tv kan niet beter voor een Hollandse kaaskop.

    Groetjes dikke knuffel J en S

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  6. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan,
    Weer een fantastisch verhaal en vooral de kamelen race, deed me een beetje denken aan Max Verstappen alleen die ging iets harder:) . Nog even en dan zijn jullie weer terug we kijken er naar uit jullie weer te zien.
    Geniet nog en goede reis. Groetjes Tonny en Eef

    1. Very good article! We are linking to this great content on our website. Keep up the great writing.

  7. Hoi Ingeborg en Twan,

    Gisteren het boek uitgelezen. Geweldig. Vandaag hele serie al op de post gedaan. We zijn net als jullie benieuwd naar de reacties. Maar het boek leest erg makkelijk weg. Ook leuk hoe je van de ene naar de andere reis springt in het boek. En best wel wat spannende situaties die je beschrijft. We zien uit naar het volgende boek.

    Groetjes, kusjes en succes met het laatste deel van de reis,
    Dorien en Ton

  8. Heerlijk weer die mooie verhalen te lezen over jullie avonturen, volgens mij hebben jullie straks stof genoeg om jullie hele leven te blijven vertellen…Geniet nog volop van deze prachtige reis en stay safe!

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