Ethiopië: verrassend en ouderwets vertrouwd!

Van het bijna verlaten en ontzettend droge noorden van Kenia rijden we richting Ethiopië. De weg is fantastisch, het is een funkel-hagel-neue door Chinezen aangelegde asfaltweg, helemaal tot aan de grens. Bij het uitgaan van Kenia krijgen we nog een kleine verrassing gepresenteerd, want we hebben bij de entry van het land blijkbaar niet alles betaald wat we moesten betalen. Gelukkig konden we dat snel voor 40 Amerikaanse Dollars (met een bonnetje) oplossen en mochten we door naar Ethiopië.

Van verlaten, alleen maar zand en rotsen, af en toe een kameel en de perfecte weg komen we in een andere wereld terecht als we Ethiopië inrijden. Het is een komen en gaan van mensen, overal ligt troep, er zijn veel winkeltjes en restaurant-achtige bouwwerkjes, geen kamelen maar ezels en iedereen rijdt aan de verkeerde kant van de weg, of is dat nou juist de goede kant van de weg? 🙂

          

We lijken Ethiopië verder gewoon in te kunnen rijden. Er is namelijk niet een ‘echte grens blokkade’ zoals we dat inmiddels gewend zijn. De douane en immigratie zijn er wel, maar die gebouwen zitten gewoon aan de zijkant van de weg. We beginnen bij Immigration (om de visums in onze paspoorten te stempelen), maar die blijken al met lunchpauze te zijn. Het is natuurlijk ook al 11.30 uur. We mogen om 13.00 terug komen. Ondertussen hebben we ook Alex getroffen, een motorrijder (uit Spanje) die via de westkant naar Zuid-Afrika is gereden en inmiddels op z’n terugtocht omhoog is via Egypte. Hij lijkt er al een tijdje te zitten en ziet er wat hopeloos uit. We besluiten zelf ook maar een hapje te gaan eten. In Ethiopië hebben ze een zeer eigen en bijzondere keuken, hadden we gehoord. Dat moeten we dus gelijk maar uit gaan proberen. In een restaurant weer veel mensen zitten bestellen we het enige gerecht dat er is: meat with enjeera. We kregen een kom met botten in bouillon en een zure sponsachtige flap. Niet te vreten… Oké, als dit het beroemde Ethiopische eten is, dan bedankten we daar graag voor.

Na deze beroerde lunch staan we netjes om 13.00 bij immigration en warempel, ze gaan nog open ook! Binnen 20 minuten staan de stempels in ons paspoort (op ons in Nairobi geregelde visum) en hoeven we alleen Ollie Ethiopië nog in te loodsen bij de douane. Daar aangekomen hebben we minder gel      uk. De customs officer is er (nog) niet, maar hij is gebeld en al onderweg. Na wat wachten, vragen, nog meer wachten, weer vragen, vele niet al te vriendelijke opmerkingen van Alex tegen de werknemers die er wel zijn, weer wachten, vragen om een telefoonnummer, nog even wachten, “hij is er nu echt zeker binnen 20 minuten”, dus nog wat langer wachten, nog een keer vragen om dan te horen krijgen dat het nu echt niet lang meer duurt en nog wat wachten blijkt dat de verantwoordelijke officer vandaag helemaal niet op z’n werk is verschenen en dat ze niet weten wanneer hij zal komen. Tot zover de duidelijke communicatie met de locals.

Met een klein beetje doorzettingsvermogen en inmmiddels zo’n 4,5 uur verder is er een collega van de douanier gebeld die op z’n vrije dag langs is gekomen om ons te helpen. Hulde! Hij ruikt behoorlijk naar alcohol, maar goed, hij doet het werk dus wij zijn blij! Bijna 16.00 is het als we Ethiopië echt in kunnen rijden! Ook This Is Africa… J

Gezien Alex er op z’n motor behoorlijk doorheen zit besluiten we hem mee te vragen met ons om een loop te maken naar een aantal bijzondere inheemse stammen. Het zal een tocht van zo’n 4 dagen worden en hij is superblij dat hij een tijdje niet met de motor hoeft te reizen! Het eerste dorpje waar we aankomen is Arbore. Hier komt een jochie van een jaar of 12 bij ons aan de auto hangen. Hij zal onze ‘lokale gids’ spelen. Hij kan aardig Engels en neemt ons mee naar het achterste dorpje om de mensen en hun huisjes te laten zien. Zodra we aankomen lijkt het dorpje verlaten, maar de mensen horen de auto en komen massaal uit hun houten hutjes. De vrouwen lopen allemaal in blote borsten, ze hebben ontzettend veel kralen om hun nek en armen. De ‘armbanden’ die ze om hun bovenarmen dragen zitten bij sommigen zo ontzettend strak, dat ik me afvraag of er nog bloed door de aderen stroomt. Naast de kinderen die allemaal aandacht van ons willen, loopt er ook een gehandicapte jongen rond. Ik vermoed dat hij 15-20 jaar oud is. Hij kan denk ik niet praten maar vindt ons helemaal fantastisch. Hij wijkt niet van Twans of mijn zijde en probeert ons continu vast te houden aan onze hand. We besluiten hem Twans ‘overwinning-shirt’ van de kamelen race in Maralal te geven. Twan trekt de jongen z’n oude, vieze shirt uit en helpt hem zijn cadeau aan te trekken. De jongen is helemaal in z’n nopjes!

           

Alex vindt het allemaal wat te toeristisch (lees: nep/opgezet) dat hij eigenlijk overdenkt terug te gaan naar Konso, waar we zijn motor hebben achtergelaten. Het is nog 75km rijden naar Turmi, het plaatsje dat het thuis is van de Hamar tribe. Door de staat van de weg zullen we er waarschijnlijk zeker 3 uur over doen. We twijfelen of we terug zullen rijden. We bellen met een gids, aangeraden door reizigers die we in Kenia zijn tegengekomen. Hij vertelt dat er vandaag en morgen ook bulljumping ceremonies zijn in Turmi, en dat het zeker de moeite waar dis. En of we met hem willen gaan? Hij kost $50 per dag, en we moeten dan ook nog een lokale gids huren voor $30 per dag. Wat een geld… Omdat veel andere mensen ook zeiden dat ze de bulljumping toch wel een hoogtepunt vonden, besluit ik dat we toch naar Turmi doorrijden, maar dan wel zonder gids, we zoeken het daar zelf wel uit. 🙂

Bij een camping aangekomen staat er al een lokale gids op ons te wachten. Sommige problemen lijken zichzelf op te lossen. Kosten? $10 per dag. Oké verkocht! Oyta wordt onze gids voor een bezoek aan de Hamar tribe en een bulljumping ceremony. Hij vertelt onderweg in de auto over zijn eigen leven. Hij is opgegroeid in een gezin van 6 en is zelf ook een Hamar. Hij is verloofd, zijn ouders hebben haar uitgekozen. Zijn twee zussen zijn al getrouwd en wonen bij hun man, de drie broers wonen op het platteland en verzorgen het familie-vee: ze hebben zo’n 200 koeien en geiten. Hij is er tevreden mee. Ze hebben het “goed”.

Hij vertelt dat de mensen in dit gebied eigenlijk niet naar school gaan. Dat is nooit zo geweest, er waren simpelweg geen scholen én de Hamar tribe ziet er ook het nut niet van in. Van jongs af aan worden de jongetjes klaargestoomd om het vee te hoeden en moeten de meisjes met de moeders mee op pad. De vrouwen hebben namelijk de zware taak om water te halen, hout te sprokkelen, voor de kinderen te zorgen en het huishouden te runnen. De mannen lopen wat rond met het vee, of zitten een beetje in het dorp te hangen en eigen gebrouwen bier te drinken. De overheid bouwt nu meer scholen en wil ook de kinderen van de tribes naar school krijgen. Uit het dorp van Oyta zijn 3 of 4 kinderen geselecteerd om dan toch naar school te moeten gaan, waaronder hij. Hij spreekt inmiddels Engels en werkt met toeristen. Wanneer er iets met één van z’n neefjes is, wordt hij altijd gebeld om mee naar de dokter te gaan en uit te leggen wat er aan de hand is. Ook als er iets anders geregeld moet worden, moet hij komen opdraven. Desondanks krijgt hij het bij z’n oudere broers niet aan het verstand om hun kinderen naar school te sturen, maar hij blijft volhouden zegt hij. Hij hoopt dat op een dag op z’n minst één van de neefjes de kans krijgt om naar school te gaan.

We lopen ondertussen in een droge rivierbedding waar de bulljumping ceremony plaats zal vinden: om van een Hamar jongen een man te maken. Na deze ceremonie is hij klaar voor het huwelijk.  We hebben tijdens onze reizen al heel wat gekke dingen gezien, maar dit is één van de meest bizarre en schokkende gebeurtenissen die we ooit hebben meegemaakt. We vinden een groep vrouwen die in de schaduw van wat bomen zijn neergestreken. Ze zien eruit zoals in de documentaires: rode klei in hun haren, blote borsten, wat lappen van leer om zich heen en flink versierd met kralen en bellen. Een aantal hebben gigantische littekens op hun rug. Op een gegeven moment beginnen ze allemaal te rennen, terug de rivierbedding in. Oyta wenkt ons: de ‘whipper’ komt er namelijk aan. De vrouwen gaan helemaal door het lint, zo enthousiast lijken ze te zijn. Ze dansen, de bellen aan hun benen maken een oorverdovende herrie en ze blazen op hun koperen hoorns.

Het duurt niet lang of we horen de slag van een zweep. De whipper is begonnen met het slaan van de vrouwen. Hij gebruikt een soort kornoelje: de tak is zo’n 150cm lang en loopt van 1,5cm diameter terug naar een dun uiteinde. De vrouwen gaan voor de whipper staan, waarna ze op hun plek springen, hun rechterarm in de lucht, de linker houdt de hoorn vast waar ze op blazen en ze springen in kleine sprongetjes op en neer. De whipper slaat ze één keer met de tak, maar gigantisch hard. De vrouwen wisselen elkaar snel af, het lijkt bijna of ze niet kunnen wachten om aan de beurt te zijn. Het duurt niet lang voordat een aantal ruggen tot bloedens toe zijn geslagen. En toch, ze geven geek kik. Je ziet zelfs geen milliseconde het gezicht van de vrouwen vertrekken van de pijn. Er zitten ook zwangere vrouwen bij, die al een behoorlijke buik hebben. We zien het gebeuren en snappen het eigenlijk niet. Het wordt ons uitgelegd: de vrouwen bewijzen op deze bijzondere manier hun liefde voor de jongen die vandaag een man wordt. Hoe harder en meer je geslagen kunt worden, hoe groter je liefde. Dus als ze een paar rake klappen hebben gehad, gaan ze gewoon weer in de rij voor meer.

Na meer dan 2 uur van bijna continu de zweep horen slaan is het tijd dat de jongens, vandaag gaat het namelijk om een tweeling, deel gaan nemen aan de ceremonie. Er wordt verwacht dat ze over een rij levende stieren springen, gehuld in adamskostuum en ingesmeerd met koeienstront en warme melk. De stieren worden opgelijnd, de spanning opgebouwd en daar gaan ze! Een aantal hoge sprongen, minimaal 4 keer heen en weer en een jongen wordt een man!

We kunnen eigenlijk niet anders concluderen dan dat dit een hele bijzondere gebeurtenis was. En Alex, die dacht dat het allemaal nep en opgezet was, heeft inmiddels zijn mening wel bijgesteld. Je tot bloedens toe laten slaan en over levende stieren rennen doe je niet om een toerist blij te maken…

           

Na deze bizarre dagen rijden we via een aantal prachtige meren door naar Addis Abeba, ‘de hoofdstad van Afrika’ zoals het ook wel wordt genoemd. Hier blijven we een kleine week voordat we Jos van het vliegveld ophalen. Jos en Twan kennen elkaar van de studietijd in Enschede. Jos is naast amateur fotograaf, bringer of Dutch food (zie foto), reisreporter voor Twing reizen en Co. ook recordhouder in het bezoeken van ons tijdens onze reizen, gezien hij in 2010 ons ook in Azië heeft opgezocht tijdens onze eerste lange reis.

          

Nadat we Jos hebben opgehaald op het vliegveld beginnen we al snel aan zijn eerste vuurdoop. We gaan lunchen bij het meest lokale, achteraf gelegen eettentje dat we gevonden hebben in onze kleine week die we al in Addis waren. Inmiddels was onze mening over het eten in Ethiopië flink bijgesteld en eten er gretig van de enjeera, shiro en meat-potato achtige curry prutjes. In het begin is hij nog wat huiverig, maar snapt al snel waarom we het zo leuk vinden in dit soort tentjes te eten. (Helaas geen foto’s gemaakt…)

Samen met Jos gaan we een flinke toer maken door het noorden van Ethiopië. Langs meren, een bezoek aan de Blue Nile Falls, hiken tot grote hoogtes (4.500m) in de Siemien Mountains, slapen in de openlucht op maar 50km van de grens met Eritrea, bezoeken van prachtige zwavel- en zoutmeren bij temperaturen van 40+ graden en als klap op de vuurpijl bezoeken we de mooiste actieve vulkaan in de wereld.

De rest van de blog laten we over aan Jos die een mooi verhaal heeft geschreven over zijn meer dan 2,5 week in Ethiopië!

Een bezoek aan het land van Abebe Bikila, Haile Gebrselassi en droogte en de bijbehorende hongersnood – want dat was alles wat ik tot op dat moment van Ethiopië wist. Echter, na twee-en-een-halve week rondreizen door dit land ben ik erachter gekomen dat het veel meer is dan dat.

Het is een land vol fantastische bergwegen, uitgestrekte vlaktes en loei hete woestijnen. Maar wat vooral gaat bijblijven zijn de enorme hordes mensen die maar blijven lopen alsof het lopen tot doel verheven is, bergen waar de mist doorheen lijkt te dansen op een compositie van Tjaikovski en zout-hakkers die werken onder omstandigheden die je doen weerhouden van dat ene klaag e-mailtje naar de facilitaire dienst als het in de zomer warmer dan 23 graden is in je kantoortuin. Ethiopië is voor mij nu de Simien Mountains met zijn steile kliffen, de Erta Ale vulkaan met zijn lava bad (oprecht één van de meest mooie natuurverschijnselen die ik heb gezien) en een met groen bedekt land vol mensen waar de noodzaak van educatie nog maar weer eens wordt bevestigd.

 

           

Alles beleefd samen met ‘ons’ koppel. Of, geoliede machine want dat doet zes maanden door Afrika reizen met een auto met je, samen naar oplossingen zoekend. Twan en Inge zoals ik ze al kende, echter nóg even iets meer op elkaar ingespeeld, blindelings aanvoelen waar de situatie om vraagt. Zo maant Inge Twan dat hij nog even geduld moet hebben, de prijs zakt nog wel van Faranji (buitenlander) prijs naar lokale prijs. Want Inge bluft dat de gids een slechte dag zal hebben, want we hebben weinig toeristen gezien. Dat we op de terugweg busje na busje vol Faranjis zien maakt ons dan niet meer uit, wij hebben inmiddels bij de Blauwe Nijl waterval gestaan voor een appel en een ei. Ook wildkamperen gaat soepel. De één de auto uit, de ander sturend. Navigerend tussen de bossen door, nauwkeurig uitzoekend welk boompje het zal verliezen van de Land Rover en welke we maar beter kunnen laten staan. Zes maanden Afrika; daar kan geen therapeut tegenop. Bovendien zijn de herinnering aan zo’n reis nog eens leuker ook. 

Al rondrijdend praten we honderduit over van alles en nog wat, ondertussen stuurt Inge de Land Rover door de binnenbocht van de andere rijbaan een bergweggetje omhoog. Zien wat eraan komt is niet nodig: ‘Je neemt gewoon de lokale gewoontes over, haha’. Het aantal trucks dat die binnenbocht toch net niet hield kunnen we inmiddels niet meer op één hand tellen. 

Zes maanden Afrika laat je ook meer mengen met de inheemse dieren, zo stelt Twan mij gerust dat een hyena die we op de achtergrond horen je alleen aanvalt als je stil blijft zitten, dus dat we maar beter kunnen gaan afwassen en is Inge niet zo bang voor de ratten die over de daken van de lodge in de Simien Mountains lopen ‘als ze eten willen hebben, vinden ze het toch wel…’. 

           

Rondreizen met een auto als woning, het klinkt toch een beetje als een zigeuner verhaal. Echter deze auto is veel meer dan een sleurhut op wielen. Hiermee druk je rustig eventjes een koe aan de kant ‘Ja, dan moet die maar opschieten’ (toch nog een beetje dat Westerse…) en gelukkig blijf je met een Land Rover altijd bezig. Bandje wisselen? Geen probleem. Voor de lezers thuis; hoe vaak heeft jullie vrouw heeft wel eens de vraag gesteld “Schat, klopt het dat de stuurstang alleen verbonden is het met linker voorwiel?” De slogan ‘Land Rover, turning ordinary men into mechanics’ slaat dus duidelijk niet alleen op mannen én Twan zijn Werktuigbouwkunde opleiding is toch niet helemaal voor niets geweest -hij wist Inge uitgebreid te vertellen hoe de stuurinrichting werkt. 

Twan en Inge komen terug als reizigers, zonder behoefte aan de luxe van de westerse samenleving. Zonder angstig kijken naar je telefoon of je niet te hard rijdt, je e-mail wel gesynchroniseerd wordt, de krampachtige Nederlandse blik op de weer-app of wanneer het gouden uurtje begint. Ze komen terug als wereld bewoners met een andere blik op Nederland en het leven als voorheen. Hopelijk lukt het iets van die blik vast te houden, al heb ik daar vertrouwen in.

En Twan, die Strongmanrun moeten we maar gewoon gaan doen. Jij barefoot en ik toch gewoon met schoenen. Dan kom jij gelijk weer wat meer in ‘shape’ -want je kunt ook dingen verliezen in Afrika… 🙂 

En klik hier voor de foto’s

288 reacties

  1. Jos -recordhouder Twing reizen bezoeker zegt: Beantwoorden

    Fantastisch! 😀

  2. Heel bijzonder weer, wel heel bizar die zweepslagceremonie…hoe is David uiteindelijk weer teruggegaan?

  3. Hoi Twan en Inge en Jos,

    Wanneer gaan Inge en Jos samen een boek schrijven? Jos heeft duidelijk talent. Twan mag dan voor de catering zorgen.

    Groetjes,
    Dorien en Ton

  4. Jongelui

    Wat een cultuur daar, vrouwen slaan ,jongens over stieren springen om man te worden, blij dat ik in Nederland woon.😜
    Wel heeeeel speciaal om dit mee te beleven.

    Groetjes en dikke knuffel

    Jan en sjanie

  5. Wat een mooi verhaal weer.
    Ik ben het met Ton eens samen een boek schrijven.
    Ik ben al een aardig eindje opweg ik je boek 500 dagen op reis.
    Je blijft lezen.
    Wens jullie nog veel
    Plezier en geniet nog van het niet geleefd worden.
    Groetjes Bennie en Pia

  6. Wat een ervaringen weer opgedaan in dit Noordelijke Afrikaanse land! En schitterende foto’s! Mooi te zien hoe de jongen naast Twan staat te stralen, neem aan dat het donkerblauwe shirt de trofee van de kamelenrace is. Weer een mens gelukkig gemaakt, prachtig! En dan het bezoek aan de inheemse stammen, bizar. Snap wel dat het bulljumping ceremonies wordt genoemd. Dat klinkt toch gezelliger dan het in het openbaar pijnigen van vrouwen door zweepslagen, tot bloedens toe…
    Het bezoek van Jos aan Twing-reizen was een succes. Uiteraard zou ik haast zeggen, de geoliede machine staat daar borg voor! Enjoy!!

  7. Hallo Ingeborg en Twan,
    Wat een verhaal en wat een culturen komen jullie tegen. Ben toch blij dat je in Europa niet over stieren hoef te springen en vrouwen zweepslagen krijgen. De foto’s zijn prachtig en je valt van de ene verbazing in de andere. Wij dachten in Kroatië een mooie sterrenhemel gezien te hebben maar die jullie zien is denk ik vele malen mooier. En ja potje voetballen en de was doen hoort er natuurlijk ook bij 🙂 . Goede reis en tot gauw groetjes Tonny en Eef

  8. Hoi Twan en Ingeborg,

    Zo te zien gaat het daar in den vreemde nog heel goed met jullie en dat is heel mooi. De mensen die jullie tegen komen worden wel steeds aparter, dus ben benieuwd wat er allemaal nog gaat volgen….. Wat een mooie foto’s en prachtige verhalen erbij. Ik heb weer genoten.

  9. Lieve Ping en Twan,

    Ik ben inmiddels weer helemaal bij met lezen en ondanks dat ik begreep dat jullie inmiddels weer thuis zijn (jeuj/boehh?) wilde ik toch nog even een laatste keer wat schrijven! Ik moest in het bijzonder heel hardop lachen bij:
    – (Rwanda) We eten een ‘mixed plate’: een compleet logische maaltijd gebruik makend van de schijf van 5: friet, spaghetti zonder saus, rijst zonder saus, bruine bonen, een gekookte aardappel, een gebakken banaan. (Yammie!!)
    – (Kenia) Er begint iemand enthousiast door de microfoon te tetteren en het publiek begint te juichen. Ik tuur in de verte, zie ik dat nou goed? Ligt Twan op kop? Ik heb bijna de slappe lach als hij juichend en joelend over de finish komt, met verkrampte benen maar een enorme grijns. (Haaahaha hoe geweldig dit!! ik zie het zo voor me en ik had net als jij de slappe lach gehad als ik erbij was geweest! whuaha! Go Twan!)
    – (Ethiopië) In een restaurant waar veel mensen zitten bestellen we het enige gerecht dat er is: meat with enjeera. We kregen een kom met botten in bouillon en een zure sponsachtige flap. Niet te vreten… (hahaha!)
    Natuurlijk slechts een kleine greep uit de prachtige en lange verhalen.. Dat ga ik wel missen hoor! Gelukkig heb ik net het boek besteld dus ik heb nog wat mooie reisverhalen voor de boeg, YES!

    Jullie zijn toppers; wat een lef, doorzettingsvermogen en wilskracht hebben jullie laten zien en wat een fantastische ervaring die niemand jullie ooit meer zal ontnemen. Sterkte met acclimatiseren en tot snel!!

    Liefs, Prl

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