Zweten, zweten, zweten!

Welkom in Soedan! We leren bij de grens meteen een paar eerste woordjes Arabisch: Salaam aleikum, shoekran. Het stempelen van ons paspoort gaat als een speer, Twan blijft bij de auto en ik laat onze beide visums afstempelen. Waar de paspoorthouder zelf is? Buiten. “Okay, have a nice day, salaam.” Maar dan de auto door de douane krijgen, dat duurt een eeuwigheid! Omdat de jongen die ons carnet moet invullen in de computer niet zo goed kan typen. Of geen Engels kan lezen maar alleen Arabische tekens kent, daar lijkt het ook wel een beetje op. Uiteindelijk is hij al bijna een half uur bezig om de datum van vandaag, merk en type auto en het chassisnummer in te typen. Ik besluit hem uiteindelijk maar te helpen, als hij tien keer achter elkaar de CAPSlock in wil drukken, maar elke keer weer op de Tab toets drukt en niet snapt wat hij verkeerd doet. Ik druk mezelf een beetje tussen hem en het toetsenbord in om toch even te laten zien hoe 10-vingers blind typen werkt. Als hij dat eenmaal ziet, is hij helemaal verbaasd maar vindt het volgens mij wel prima! Twee minuten later zijn we klaar. Daarna komt er een overzichtje uit de printer gerold. Alles wordt nog drie keer gecontroleerd voordat hij de stempel op het carnet durft te zetten. We worden er een beetje ongeduldig van inmiddels (ondanks zoveel maanden Afrika). Maar goed, laten we het van de positieve kant bekijken: hij wil geen fouten maken en gaat erg zorgvuldig te werk. Nu alleen nog naar de security check. Geen idee waarom, maar we moeten nog een keer ons paspoort laten zien. Ook hier blijkt de beste man geen Engels te kunnen lezen, slechts Arabisch. Ik help hem dus maar door aan te wijzen wat mijn voornaam is, mijn achternaam, paspoortnummer en uit welk land we komen. Ook wisselen we geld, er zijn namelijk geen pinautomaten aan de grens. Het wisselen is weer een ervaring op zich, want er is nogal een sterke black-market exchange rate. Wanneer je één Amerikaanse Dollar wisselt krijg je er zo´n 20 Soedanese Pound voor terug. Ga je pinnen of wisselen bij de bank, de officiële route, dan krijg je maximaal 7 Pound! Een makkelijke keuze dus! Komen die dollars die we al bijna een jaar meeslepen toch eindelijk eens van pas, wisselen maar! Al met al een bijzondere entree!

Eenmaal onderweg in Soedan blijkt het land zich te kenmerken door de vele politie checkpoints op de weg. Om de 30km moeten we ons paspoort laten zien. We hebben altijd kopieën van de belangrijke documenten in de auto liggen, dus vissen we elke keer een paspoort kopietje tevoorschijn. Bij elke controle willen ze het papiertje weer houden, maar omdat we er niet zoveel hebben is het discussiëren om onze kopietjes een goed tijdverdrijf. De eerste nacht in Soedan besluiten meteen weer te gaan wildkamperen. We vinden een plekje met de iOverlander, de app waar officiële en niet officiële campings/plekken in staan. Het is een perfecte plek: een prachtige zonsondergang en er loopt ’s avonds zelfs een baby schorpioentje onder onze tafel door.

              

De wegen zijn lang en recht, dwars door het uitgestrekte, vlakke en droge landschap. Het asfalt is over het algemeen best goed, wat hobbelig maar zonder al te veel gaten. Wat nieuw is? De herders met hun vee lopen veelal naast de weg, in plaats van op de weg zoals in alle andere landen tot nu toe! We kunnen dan ook flink doorrijden door de steeds warmer wordende omgeving. In de ochtend is het nog best aangenaam qua temperatuur, maar rond het middaguur is het toch echt wel bloedheet en loopt het kwik op naar 40 graden (het is hier heet maar ook zo droog dat dode dieren naast de weg niet verteren maar domweg uitdrogen). In de auto, met de raampjes open voelt de lucht nog steeds als een warme föhn in je gezicht. We zitten dan ook gigantisch te zweten. Na elke politiestop zijn we blij dat we weer mogen rijden om een beetje luchtverplaatsing te voelen.

We genieten van het totaal andere eten dan in Ethiopië. Geen njeera flappen meer maar falafel en heerlijke braadkippetjes. We bezoeken een aantal tempels en oude piramides.  Bij de piramides van Meroë konden we met uitzicht op de piramides kamperen, met niemand om ons heen. Heerlijk genieten van de zonsondergang met onze in-een-waterfles-meegesmokkelde-gin-tonic! Hadden we al verteld dat alcohol hier verboden is? 🙂

              

In Soedan is minder te doen dan in de landen waar we tot nu toe zijn geweest. We rijden daarom ruim 1.800km in zes dagen: een flinke afstand voor Afrikaanse begrippen. Zodra we aankomen bij de grens met Egypte zien we een aantal grote gebouwen staan. Je kunt rechtdoor overal langs, of linksaf naar de gebouwen toe. We gaan maar naar links, want er zomaar voorbij rijden zal ons op den duur problemen opleveren. De Soedanese kant lijkt verlaten, ondanks dat het 10.30 uur is. In eerste instantie vermoeden we dat dit komt omdat deze grensovergang pas sinds kort als normale grensovergang wordt gezien: voorheen beheerde het Egyptische en Soedanese leger deze grens en vroegen ze om enorme bedragen om met je auto te mogen oversteken. Inmiddels is de grens in handen van de overheid en kun je voor de normale tarieven erdoor.

              

We parkeren de auto en gaan vol goede moet aan de slag, eerst maar eens naar Immigration. Omdat we hier niet echt op een toeristische plek zitten doe ik m’n hoofddoek maar om voor de zekerheid, zoals ik al doe sinds we in Soedan zijn aangekomen. Er zit een groepje van zes man in blauwe uniformen op hun stoeltje buiten. Ze knikken wat en één van hen vraagt om onze paspoorten. We moeten een exit-form invullen, betalen een ticket voor het één of ander (achteraf weten we nog steeds niet waarvoor) en vinden uiteindelijk de persoon die een exitstempeltje op ons visum kan zetten. Het duurt zo’n 40min maar goed, we hebben de stempel.

De stempelaar is degene die het beste Engels spreekt. Omdat er geen bordjes hangen vraag ik hem naar Customs voor de auto. “Sit sit, wait,” is het enige wat hij zegt. De officer die ons moet helpen komt er zo aan. Na een kwartier lijkt er nog steeds weinig te gebeuren, dus gaat Twan naar hem toe. Hij geeft aan dat we nog een stuk moeten rijden, insjallah, en dat het dus fijn zou zijn als diegene ons kan komen helpen. Maar nee hoor, hij mag weer gaan zitten en we moeten nog steeds wachten. Weer 20 minuten later worden we toch wat ongeduldig: er is in deze hele grenspost geen mens te bekennen die de grens over wil. Daarentegen lopen er in totaal wel zo’n 50 mensen rond die hier blijkbaar werken. Waar zijn ze dan in hemelsnaam mee bezig dat ze niet even ons Carnet kunnen stempelen?

We snappen er niks van, dus ik ga weer naar de man. Hij besluit een telefoontje te plegen en na twee minuten komt er inderdaad een jongen aan die ons wil helpen. We geven het Carnet en een stapeltje kopietjes van ons paspoort, rijbewijs, kentekenbewijs, Comesa (verzekering) en lopen met hem mee. Maar hij heeft slecht nieuws: het is 11.50 uur en ze hebben nu (vanaf 12 uur) pauze. Om 13.00 uur kunnen ze ons pas helpen. We proberen nog wat met ons vriendelijkste gezicht, maar het mag niet baten.

Rond kwart voor één lijkt er beweging te komen: mensen beginnen heen en weer te lopen, kantoren gaan open en er komt zelfs een bus die ook de grens over wil. Tot die tijd waren wij de enigen. Onze jongen loopt veel heen en weer met onze stapel papieren, we moeten weer van alles betalen waarvan we ons afvragen wat het eigenlijk is. De man waarvan we denken dat hij ons Carnet moet stempelen schijnt van de Traffic Police te zijn. Hij vertelt me dat hij een hele zware baan heeft en dat hij normaliter pas om 16.00 uur begint te werken. Tot die tijd moet hij slapen omdat zijn baan zo zwaar is. Ik begrijp hem natuurlijk volkomen, maar vraag hem toch vriendelijk (waar ik het nog vandaan haal weet ik niet) of hij ons wil helpen, het duurt maar een paar minuutjes. Hij loopt uiteindelijk mee en laat ons SGP 100 betalen (€ 5,00), waarvan we achteraf vermoeden dat dit geld regelrecht z’n zak in gaat. De stempelaar van het Carnet blijkt moeilijk te traceren te zijn, dus we mogen weer wachten.

Het is inmiddels 13.30 uur en ik ben het wachten nu echt helemaal zat. De jongen lijkt ook niet echt het leiderschap te hebben om de stempelaar op te halen, waar hij dan ook mag uithangen, en die stempel te regelen. Ik ben behoorlijk streng tegen hem en uiteindelijk weten we de stempelaar te vinden. De man spreekt geen woord Engels maar dat maakt niet uit. Hij helpt ons! Om 14.00 uur zijn we eindelijk klaar en mogen we Soedan verlaten. Op naar de andere kant!

              

De verhalen over de Egyptische grens zijn niet heel positief: corrupt, langdradig proces en alleen maar onduidelijkheden. Vol goede moed gaan we er naartoe, maar we komen het hek nog niet eens binnen omdat we geen Egyptisch geld hebben (wat we hier wilden wisselen). Twan mag dus weer terug Soedan in. Gelukkig via de illegale weg, want anders hadden we in niemandsland moeten overnachten gezien de efficiëntie!

Aan de Egyptische kant lijkt het tegenovergestelde van Soedan te gebeuren. Er moet ontzettend veel gebeuren: eerst een auto inspectie op verboden goederen, we kunnen nog net voorkomen dat ze willen dat we de daktenten opklappen! Vervolgens door voor het visum voor Egypte. Europeanen krijgen een visa on arrival, maar omdat deze grensovergang nieuw is blijkt dat hier niet zo te zijn. Wij hebben ons weer dusdanig slecht ingelezen dat we dit niet weten. De beambte kijkt ons vragend aan: wat we hier aan denken te doen, we hadden dit namelijk van tevoren moeten regelen! Heel even ben ik bang dat dit een probleem gaat worden, maar de beambte loopt weg met onze paspoort en komt een paar minuten later terug met twee stempels en wat Arabisch gekriebel. We hebben geen idee wat er staat, maar we moeten binnenkort op een vliegveld even een visum kopen volgens hem (blijkt achteraf ook een hele opgave te zijn…). Door naar de douane voor de auto, we sluiten Egyptische verzekeringen af en we krijgen zelfs nieuwe, Egyptische nummerplaten! Als alles bijna geregeld is krijgen we nog een kopje thee en vindt er een grote fotosheet plaats. Iedereen wil graag met ons op de foto. Je zou zeggen dat hier aan de grens gewoon gewerkt wordt, maar nee, het lijkt erop dat wij vandaag toch echt de enige bijzondere klanten zijn… Tegen alle verwachtingen in kunnen we na 1,5 uur weer op weg. Voor we vertrekken vraagt een politieman aan mij of ik Moslima ben, wijzend naar m’n hoofddoek. Ik schud van nee. “Why?” vraagt hij en hij wijst weer naar m’n hoofddoek. “Out of respect,” antwoord ik. Hij glimlacht: “Thank you, then I also respect you.”

                      

Egypte is toch wel een van de verrassingen van de reis. We (Twan in het bijzonder) waren erg sceptisch door alle wilde verhalen over in het bijzonder corruptie. ‘Wil je het land in, dan is het tijd voor baksheesh (smeergeld). Ow, u wilt dat stempeltje ook? Dan wordt er een hand opgehouden en zachtjes baksheesh gefluisterd. Wil je over deze weg rijden? Dat kan niet zomaar… en wil je wat kopen? Dan rekenen we daar de extra speciale, niet te betalen Europese toeristen prijs voor. En de haven, wil je je auto verschepen? Dat zou volledig door de mafia in handen zijn.’ Ons initiële plan was dan ook om Egypte lekker over te slaan. Maar al rijdend vanuit Zuid-Afrika werd ons verteld dat we Egypte absoluut niét moesten overslaan. En de mensen hadden gelijk: wat een bijzonder land is dat! En de mensen? Alleen maar vriendelijk! Corruptie? Onzin!

De Egyptenaren zijn extreem vriendelijk (de enige plek waar je niet moet zijn, is waar de toeristen zijn. Daar zijn de Egyptenaren plat gezegd gewoon irritant… J) en lijken het erg vermakelijk te vinden dat wij met onze oude Land Rover door het land komen rijden. Bij politie checkpoints worden we ooklang niet altijd gestopt. En als dat wel het geval is, zijn we met 2 minuutjes weer weg. Kijken we ergens wat verbaasd om ons heen, dan is daar meteen een helpende hand. Het eten is er erg lekker. We hebben ons misselijk gegeten aan Falafel Sandwiches (veel voor weinig!), gegrilde kip en Syrische stijl döner kebab. In Egypte waren we weer eventjes flexitariër af…

Iets waar je in Nederland niet naar uitkijkt, maar in Soedan en Egypte is het fantastisch: tanken! Een litertje diesel meer of minder maakt hier niet uit gezien de schokkende prijs van 20 cent per liter. We blijken helaas geen volle jerrycans mee te mogen nemen naar Europa… Shit.

We gaan net als in Soedan vrolijk door met wild kamperen! Het enige nadeel is dat je geen douches hebt (toilet is geen probleem, wildplassen kunnen we inmiddels als de beste!). Zodra we de na een lange dag bij een restaurant aankomen en daar een douche zien, nemen we naast een lekker broodje met kip ook direct maar een douche. Die nacht staan we ruikend naar zeep op 30 meter van de doorgaande weg samen met een vrachtwagen of vijf te overnachten.

              

Omdat toch een klein beetje te compenseren in comfort hebben we een ‘vakantie’ geboekt in Egypte. Ook al is all-inclusive voor reizigers als vloeken in de kerk, we hebben het toch maar gedaan. In Hurghada hebben we een mooi adult-only hotel gevonden. Aan het zwembad was het dus heerlijk rustig, lekker boekjes lezen en ervoor zorgen dat alles geregeld werd voor de overtocht van Ollie naar Italië. Mijn boek ligt na vele telefoontjes en mailtjes in verschillende boekwinkels en het Bol.com proces is opgestart. Al met al heerlijk ontspannen, maar ook weer flink wat geregeld!

Het voelt vreemd: Egypte is ons laatste land in Afrika… Hier gaan we ons eerste afscheid nemen van Ollie. Meer dan 2 weken zonder elkaar is sinds Zuid-Afrika niet meer voorgekomen. De dag dat we haar achter moeten laten gaat het nog bijna mis: doordat we bij binnenkomst geen officieel visum in ons paspoort hebben, en we deze schijnbaar nodig hebben om Ollie richting de douane te krijgen moeten we haasje-repje nog eventjes een visum regelen. Van het ene kantoortje, waar we geen visum konden krijgen worden we in een Uber gedropt (ja dat heeft Egypte ook al bereikt) vertrekken we richting het vliegveld van Alexandrië om te kijken of we hem daar kunnen bemachtigen. Bij de deur worden we al tegen gehouden: nee, hier kun je geen visum krijgen. Maar dat was ons wel verteld. Want als we het hier niet kunnen krijgen, waar moeten we dan heen? We blijven volhouden en na uiteindelijk een aantal telefoontjes met onze verscheper komen we bij de juiste persoon. Twee  minuten later lopen we met een visum naar buiten. Terug de Uber in en snel Ollie droppen bij het verscheep-bedrijf. Auto uit, nog één keer achterom kijken en daar gingen we dan. Echt afscheid hebben we niet genomen, althans zo voelde het op dat moment.

Van Alexandrië reizen we met de trein naar Caïro. Ineens moeten we weer slepen met tassen en spullen, we missen Ollie meteen! In Caïro staat onze laatste attractie op het programma: de Pyramides van Gizah en de Sphinx. Wat een indrukwekkende geschiedenis kent dit land! Wat een bouwwerken werden er zó lang geleden al gemaakt. Fantastisch.

Na nog een Syrische döner (ik word er inmiddels misselijk van, Twan eet gulzig door), een slecht hostel, weer een lokaal kopje thee en nog een vies marktje is het zover: we gaan terug naar Europa. En ondanks dat we dan nog steeds bijna 2.000km van Nederland landen, voelt het alsof we nu terug gaan naar ons oude leven. Nederland komt dichterbij en daarmee ook onze nieuwe werkelijkheid.

Op Twan’s verjaardag, met een karamel tompouce van de meest beroemde bakker van Caïro, zitten we in het vliegtuig naar Casablanca… Ja we letten op de kleintjes! We konden een paar tientjes besparen, dus we vliegen niet direct naar Rome, maar maken we om Twans verjaardag te vieren een kleine omweg via Marokko. In de middag landen we in Rome, maar daarover de volgende keer meer.

              

Klik hier door naar de overige foto’s!

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  2. Hoi Twan en Inge,

    Groetjes vanuit de Lean Six Sigma Black Belt cursus in Heemskerk. Ik zie weer een mooi lang verhaal, kan het nu niet zo snel lezen. Ik ga het verhaal vanavond op mijn hotelkamer uitgebreid lezen. En nog veel plezier in Oostenrijk.

    Gr.
    Ton

  3. Hoi Inge en Twan.
    Wat een geweldig cadeau geven jullie iedere keer weer aan ons om mee te mogen genieten van jullie reiservaringen en beelden.Respect voor jullie manier van reizen!
    Geniet van de laatste dagen van de reis en zorg dat je je herinneringen op een goede plek gaat opslaan. Dan kun je deze onvergetelijke ervaring nog vele keren terug halen.
    Fijne wintersport en “ski heil”.Groet v Jaap

  4. Hoi Twan en Ingeborg,

    Heb nu het verhaal even helemaal gelezen en de foto’s bekeken. Geweldig om te lezen dat er soms zulke vooroordelen zijn, zoals in dit geval over Egypte. Fijn dat jullie zoveel aardige mensen tegengekomen zijn. En veel van die mensen wilden ook nog met jullie op de foto. Dit was de afsluiting van ‘Afrika’. Op naar een volgende avontuur.

    Groetjes,
    Ton

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  5. Hi beste reizigers,
    weer een prachtig verhaal, zoals we er inmiddels velen hebben gehad. Waarbij ieder reisverhaal weer zijn eigen specifieke elementen heeft. De foto’s illustreren de wondere wereld van de woestijn, prachtig! En gelukkig blijken de mensen intrinsiek toch heel anders dan je op grond van eerste toeristische info zou verwachten. Wat hebben we nu geleerd? Het reisbureau Twing & Co zou een heus gat in de markt kunnen vullen. Succes verzekerd!!
    En van het zweten in de woestijn inmiddels in de vrieskou in de Alpen. Een groter contrast is nauwelijks denkbaar. Het worden lange avonden bij jullie straks weer in NL, je raakt niet uitgepraat met een backpack vol reiservaring. Maar wordt het dan echt te laat, is er gelukkig nog het boek!
    Enjoy nog even in de sneeuw!!

    Knuffel van pa!!

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    Dikke knuffel sjanie

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